Pain Medications for Dogs

Analgesics are drugs used to relieve pain. There are many classes of painkillers. Demerol, morphine, codeine, and other narcotics are subject to federal regulation and cannot be purchased without a prescription.

Buffered or enteric-coated aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) is an over-the-counter analgesic that is reasonably safe for a short time for home veterinary care in the recommended dosage for dogs. (Aspirin has a very low margin of safety for cats and should not be used.) Buffered or enteric-coated aspirin is much safer than regular aspirin because it is less likely to cause stomach and duodenal ulcers.

Behavior Changes in Aging Dogs ( 3 )

Fears and Phobias

Sensory decline, cognitive dysfunction and anxiety can all contribute to fears and phobias. The first step in treatment is to control underlying medical problems and cognitive dysfunction. Older dogs can suffer from fears and phobias of noise and thunderstorms and, less commonly, of going outdoors, entering certain rooms or walking on certain types of surfaces. Dog guardians’ own understandably frustrated reaction to their dogs’ behavior can also aggravate the problem-especially punishment is used.

Behavior Changes in Aging Dogs ( 2 )

Excessive Vocalization

Your senior dog’s vocalizing can become a problem if he does it too often or at inappropriate times, like when you’re sleeping. Anxious vocalizing is usually a plaintive howl or excessive whining. If your dog does it only when you’re gone, it could indicate separation anxiety. If he does it when you’re home, then you’ll need the help of a behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist to determine what’s causing your dog to vocalize so much.

Behavior Changes in Aging Dogs

As they age, our dogs often suffer a decline in functioning. Their memory, their ability to learn, their awareness and their senses of sight and hearing can all deteriorate. This deterioration can cause disturbances in their sleep-wake cycles, making them restless at night but sleepy during the day. It can increase their activity level (resulting, for example, in staring at objects, wandering aimlessly or vocalizing more) or decrease their activity level (leading to less self-care and poor appetite). It can make them forget previously learned cues (commands) or habits they once knew well, such as house training and coming when called. It can increase their anxiety and tendency to react aggressively.

Treating Behavior Problems in Dogs ( 2 )

Medicines for the Treatment of General Anxiety continued...

Dosage Schedule

TCAs are prescribed for daily use. If the medicine isn’t taken every day, it won’t work to treat the problem behavior. TCAs are not usually effective the first day-or even the first few days that they are taken. Because at least some of their effectiveness comes from the changes they make to the brain, they must be taken for at least two to three weeks before they produce results. Treatment should continue for at least two months before a decision is made regarding the success of the drug.

Treating Behavior Problems in Dogs

Over the last two decades, the role of the domestic dog has undergone significant change. Dogs who used to live in a house with family members around all day, every day-and who had a big backyard in which to play and chase rabbits-may find themselves in an empty house 8 to 10 hours a day and being taken on a leash to a place to eliminate. Some dogs have a difficult time adjusting to this lifestyle, and many behavior problems occur because dogs are on their own and entertaining themselves inside the house. Other problems arise because dogs are more intimate members of the family than they were before and share closer quarters with their human families. Still other problems occur because of the difficulty dogs have adapting their natural behavior’s to the limited environment of the modern urban home.

Behavior problems arising from the limitations imposed by the modern urban environment can be complex and difficult to treat. Anxiety is often a factor. In such situations, medication can help with treatment success.

Is Medication Necessary?

Some pet parents don’t want to give their dog behavioral medication. They’re not comfortable treating behavior issues with drugs and would rather resolve the problem through training and behavior modification. This reaction is understandable. However, some problems can be resolved more quickly and with less distress (for the dog and the pet parent) if behavior medication is added to the treatment plan.

In an ideal world, the most effective approach to treating a behavior problem is behavior change training. Behavior modification treatments designed by knowledgeable, qualified professionals treat the problem behavior by either changing the dog’s perception of a situation or a thing, by changing the consequence of the dog’s behavior, by giving the dog an acceptable behavior to do in place of the problem behavior, or by a combination of these things. (Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, for help choosing and locating a qualified expert in your area.)

However, with many problem behaviors related to fear, medication is necessary to reduce the dog’s fear to a level that allows treatment to begin. Please see our article, Desensitization and Counterconditioning for information about these effective treatments that are commonly used for fears, phobias, anxiety and aggression.

Can Medication Be Used Instead of Behavior Modification?

Behavioral medication alone isn’t usually effective for resolving a behavior problem. For the dog, medication serves to make a situation tolerable but not necessarily acceptable. Behavior modification can then be used to make the situation acceptable. For instance, if a dog is afraid of thunder storms, medication can ease the dog’s fear enough that he can tolerate the storm and undergo the counterconditioning necessary to treat his fear. But it’s the counterconditioning that helps him overcome his fear. In addition, many dogs can develop behavior habits because of a problem that requires medication. The medication can help the core problem, but behavior modification is still necessary to treat the accompanying behavior habits.

Which Medicines Are Best for What?

Five types of medicines are usually used to treat behavior problems in dogs. These are benzodiazepines (BZs), monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs), tricyclic antidepressants (TCAs) and selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs). The following is a table that shows different behavior problems in dogs that have been successfully treated with behavior change training and medicine.

Behavior Problem	Medicine Type
General Timidity and Fear of New Things	TCA, SSRI, 5-HT agonist
Thunderstorm or Noise Event Phobia	BZ, TCA
Distress at Being Left Alone (Separation Anxiety)	BZ, TCA
Compulsive Behavior (repeating the same short response or sequence over and over again)	TCA, SSRI, 5-HT agonist
Excessive Licking	TCA, SSRI, 5-HT agonist
Cognitive Dysfunction	MAOI

Medicines for the Treatment of Sudden or Severe Fear and Panic

Some dogs experience fear only in specific situations, such as during fireworks or other events with loud noises. The benzodiazepines can help in these situations by reducing fear as needed right when these situations occur. Benzodiazepines take effect quickly, so they can treat impending fear within a short period of time-the same way an aspirin relieves a headache shortly after you take it. In contrast, most other drugs for alleviating fear need to be taken daily for several weeks before they produce results-just like antibiotics need to be taken a few days before they begin to fight bacteria. A minor drawback is that BZs must be given to the dog before the fearful event begins. Optimally, the medicine should be given one hour before the beginning of the scary event, or at minimum, it should be given before the dog shows any signs of fear or worry, such as stress panting, trembling, tail tucking, pupil dilation, sweating paw pads, etc.

Some common benzodiazepines are diazepam (Valium^®), alprazolam (Xanax^®), chlordiazepoxide (Librium^®), lorazepam (Ativan^®) and clonazepam (Klonopin^®). Benzodiazepines work by increasing the activity of a chemical in the brain that interferes with activation of the fear networks.

Dose Effects

You can only know if a drug is working if you have an idea of what effects to expect. The following list provides the expected reactions in dogs to different doses of benzodiazepines:

• At low doses, benzodiazepines ramp down excessive behavior and reduce excitability.


• At moderate doses, benzodiazepines reduce anxiety. Dogs who are afraid will be less fearful and more likely to act normally. At these doses the drug can also increase friendly and interactive behavior.


• High doses of benzodiazepines produce sedation, including impaired movement and thinking, and disorientation. They also produce sleepiness and cause vomiting. Benzodiazepines affect some of the same parts of the cells in a dog’s brain as alcohol, and so they produce similar effects.

Side Effects

Benzodiazepines have some unwanted side effects, including increased appetite and sleeplessness. Sleeplessness may seem contradictory, but this medicine can actually produce increased anxiety in some dogs. Although not common, this side effect seems to occur most often when the medicine is given after the dog has already begun to show signs of anxiety.

Medicines for the Treatment of Sudden or Severe Fear and Panic continued...

Benzodiazepines are also inappropriate for the treatment of aggression, because they can sometimes reduce inhibition. This means that although the dog may not react as quickly to a frightening or disturbing event, if he does react he might behave aggressively. Lastly, benzodiazepines can cause addiction if they are given many times a day for more than three weeks.

Benzodiazepines can also interfere with learning and memory, so they aren’t good choices for long-term use with training and behavior modification. Because of this, if a benzodiazepine is necessary because of excessive anxiety or fear, this type of medicine is best used initially and then gradually discontinued.

Health Issues

Benzodiazepines are metabolized in the liver and excreted through a dog’s kidneys, so if your veterinarian advises you to treat your dog’s fear with a benzodiazepine, she should check with a simple blood test to make sure that these organs are working well before beginning treatment. If your dog has had problems with his kidneys or liver, be sure to let your veterinarian know.

Medicines for the Treatment of General Anxiety

Some dogs suffer from a more generalized form of anxiety that leaves them nervous in many everyday situations. Benzodiazepines are not a good choice for everyday, ongoing treatment, so they aren’t appropriate for dogs with generalized anxiety. These dogs do better with treatment that can be continued for a period of time rather than given in anticipation of frightening events. The medicines that help dogs with general anxiety problems are TCAs, MAOIs and SSRIs.

Tricyclic Antidepressants

Tricyclic antidepressants (TCAs) were originally used to treat depression in people. They work primarily by increasing serotonin and norepinephrin-two neurotransmitters that are involved in regulation of emotional activity. They also affect other neurochemicals involved in emotional reactivity. The TCAs prescribed most for dogs are amitriptyline (Elavil^® or Tryptanol), clomipramine (Clomicalm^® or Anafranil^®), doxepin (Aponal^®), imipramine (Antideprin or Deprenil), desipramine (Norpramin^® or Pertofrane) and nortriptyline (Sensoval). Every dog is unique behaviorally and physiologically, so one TCA might not work well in a dog whereas a different TCA in the same dog could have excellent results.

Although TCAs were originally labeled to treat depression, they also reduce anxiety, manage compulsive behavior and can help people with anger problems. In dogs they have been used successfully to help with treatment of separation anxiety, general anxiety and compulsive behavior problems like compulsive licking. For instance, amitriptyline is a good choice for treating generalized anxiety and separation anxiety. Studies have shown that clomipramine is quite beneficial when used in combination with behavior modification for treating separation anxiety. This medication is approved for dogs by the FDA. (It’s sold under the name Clomicalm^®.) It‘s also effective for reducing compulsive behavior.

to be continued...

Dog Shedding and Grooming

Dog hair grows in cycles. Each follicle has a period of rapid growth (the anagen phase), followed by slower growth and then a resting phase (the catagen phase). During the resting phase, mature hair remains in the follicles and eventually detaches at the base. When the dog sheds her coat (the telogen phase), a young hair pushes out the old hair and the cycle begins anew. The average dog takes about four months to grow a coat, but there are individual and breed variations. The Afghan Hound, for example, grows her coat in about 18 months.

Many people assume that temperature changes govern when a dog sheds her coat. In fact, the seasonal length of daylight exerts the major influence. Longer periods of daylight in spring activate a shedding process that lasts four to six weeks. In fall, as the daylight hours grow shorter, many dogs may again shed their coat. Sensitivity to ambient light is most pronounced in dogs who live outdoors. Dogs who live primarily indoors are exposed to artificial light and a rather fixed photoperiod. These dogs may shed and grow new coats all year long.

Some breeds, such as Poodles, Bedlington Terriers, and Kerry Blue Terriers, have what is called a nonshedding curly coat. These breeds do not shed loose hair into your house. Instead, their loose hair tends to collect into mats that remain on the body. Dogs with corded coats, such as the Puli and Komondor, have similar coats, but their hair works itself into cords.

Some dogs have a double coat comprised of long, coarse outer guard hairs and a soft, fine, wooly undercoat. When a dog with a double coat begins to shed, the appearance of the coat can be quite alarming. The undercoat is shed in a mosaic or patchy fashion, giving the dog a moth-eaten appearance that may suggest a skin disease.

When shedding begins, remove as much of the irritating dead hair as possible by daily brushing. In breeds with a thick double coat, a bath will loosen the dead hair and make it easier to remove. Always brush out a dog before bathing to help prevent the formation of mats.

Grooming

Grooming at regular intervals will keep your dog’s coat and skin in good condition and prevent many problems. Even hairless breeds require some grooming for healthy skin. Establish a grooming schedule during puppyhood and stick to it throughout the dog’s life. Initially, keep the sessions brief and make grooming a pleasurable experience. If the puppy grows to dislike the basic grooming routine, a simple procedure will become most difficult.

It is important that the bristles on the brush and the teeth on the comb be the right length for the dog’s coat. For example, if the coat is thick and the bristles and teeth are too short, the top coat may look smooth for a time but the undercoat will mat. Eventually the top coat becomes involved and the dog may have to be shaved. On the other hand, if the dog has a thin undercoat, grooming with tools that have long bristles and teeth can scratch and injure the skin.

Removing Mats

Mats are solid clumps of fur that can form anywhere on the body but are usually found behind the ears, in the folds of the armpits, around the anus, on the backs of the thighs, in the groin area, and between the toes. Mats are evidence of neglected grooming or grooming with the wrong tools. Dogs with softer hair are more prone to develop mats.

To remove mats, first saturate the clumps of hair with coat conditioner for several minutes. This rehydrates the hair and closes the barbs. Then separate as much of the mat as you can with your fingers.

Some mats can be removed with the tip of a comb. However, most require the use of scissors, an electric clipper, or a mat splitter. Cutting into mats with scissors must be done with extreme care, because a dog’s skin is not attached to the underlying muscle and tents up as the mat is pulled. Do not slide the scissors beneath the mat and attempt to remove it flush with the skin. You will almost certainly remove a piece of skin. When possible, slide a comb beneath the mat as a barrier between the scissors and the skin. Then hold the scissors perpendicular to the comb and carefully snip into the fur ball in narrow strips. Similar care must be taken with electric clippers. Tease the mat out gently. After the mat has been removed, comb out residual snarls.

This technique also works for removing burdocks and tangled plant material. Nonstick cooking sprays may help to ease the plant material out of the hair without cutting any coat.

To remove gum, put an ice cube on the gum first, then try to slide it off. If that doesn’t work, you will need to carefully cut it out.

Vomiting in Dogs

If you think dogs vomit a lot, you’re right. That’s because dogs have a well-developed vomiting center in their brains, which allows them to throw up much easier than most other animals.

It’s partially a defense mechanism to the dog’s scavenger nature. They see something and eat it to find out if it’s edible. If it's not, their body throws it back out the same way it came in.

But vomiting can also be a sign of a serious and even life-threatening illness in our pets. Here are facts you need to know about dogs' vomiting.

Vomit or Regurgitation?

There are two ways that dogs throw up.

When food stays in the esophagus because it is blocked or won’t go down, it accumulates until it is overloaded and the dog regurgitates the food. Although this process may appear similar to vomiting, it is actually called regurgitation. This food often appears tubular in shape and undigested because it has not actually made it to the stomach.

But when the food reaches the stomach, it has to be forcefully expelled through vomiting. Dogs that are about to vomit usually become anxious and may seek attention or reassurance and exhibit signs of excessive drooling and swallowing.

Why Dogs Vomit

Common causes of vomiting are eating indigestible substances, overeating or eating too fast, exercising immediately after eating, motion sickness, stress, and worms.

But vomiting also can be a sign of serious illnesses, such as ulcers, kidney or liver failure, enterocolitis, parvovirus, distemper, pancreatitis, cancer, peritonitis, diabetes, acute gastritis, intestinal obstruction, food allergies, poisoning, or other illnesses.

If a dog vomits only a frothy, clear or yellowish fluid, it probably has a stomach problem, such as acute gastritis, but it also could have pancreatitis, peritonitis, or an intestinal obstruction.

And going through the motions of vomiting, but not bringing up any vomitus could be a sign of bloat (also called gastric dilatation and volvulus, or GDV), a very dangerous and often fatal condition in which the stomach twists inside a dog.

When Is Vomiting a Serious Problem?

If an otherwise healthy dog throws up occasionally, it probably isn’t a problem. But if you see any of the following signs, take your dog to a veterinarian immediately:

• Vomiting more than once per day, or continuing to vomit the following day


• Projectile vomiting


• Vomit containing bright red blood or what looks like coffee grounds (this is partially digested blood)


• Diarrhea


• Lethargy


• Vomiting despite not eating for several hours


• Abdominal bloating

Vomiting also can be more dangerous in older dogs, dogs that already have health issues, and puppies. So keep a closer eye on those dogs and take them to your vet if they continue to throw up, because vomiting can severely dehydrate dogs.

Diagnosing the Problem

Help your vet diagnose your dog’s problem by paying close attention to when and how often your pet has vomited. Also mention anything else you noticed, such as blood in their vomit, diarrhea, weight loss, a change in appetite, and lethargy.

Your veterinarian may do diagnostic tests -- which could range from blood work and X-rays to exploratory surgery -- to find the cause of the problem.

Treating Vomiting

If your dog is healthy and has vomited only once, you should withhold food and water for about 12 hours to give your dog’s stomach time to rest.

After that, give your dog a few ice chips or a small amount of water (a quarter to half a cup, depending on your dog’s size) to see if they can tolerate it. You also can give them a small amount of pediatric electrolyte solution with the water.

If your pet seems fine with the water, offer a couple of tablespoons of bland food, such as boiled chicken breast and rice, every few hours. If he keeps it down, you can slowly reintroduce his regular diet. If he throws up again, see your veterinarian.

Your veterinarian may prescribe antibiotics, a diet change, antiemetics (drugs that help control vomiting) or other medications. Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations on what is best for your pet.

Emergency Care and First Aid for Dogs

Unfortunately, accidents do happen. When a medical emergency befalls our furry friends, pet parents may find it difficult to make rational decisions, especially if something occurs during the middle of the night. That's why it's crucial to have an emergency plan in place-before you need it.

How Do I Find 24-Hour Emergency Care for My Dog?

Talk to your veterinarian about an emergency protocol. Does your vet provide 24-hour service or does he or she work with an emergency clinic in the area? Some practices have multiple veterinarians on staff who rotate on-call services after hours. Check to see if your primary care vet has partners who might answer an emergency call.

It’s also a smart idea to keep the name, number and address of your local emergency clinic tacked to the refrigerator or stored in your cell phone for easy access.

When Does My Dog Need Emergency Care?

Your dog may need emergency care because of severe trauma-caused by an accident or fall-choking, heatstroke, an insect sting, household poisoning or other life-threatening situation.

What Are Some Signs That My Dog Needs Emergency Care?

• Pale gums


• Rapid breathing


• Weak or rapid pulse


• Change in body temperature


• Difficulty standing


• Apparent paralysis


• Loss of consciousness


• Seizures


• Excessive bleeding

What Should I Do if My Dog Needs Emergency Care?

Dogs who are severely injured may act aggressively toward their pet parents, so it’s important to first protect yourself from injury. Approach your dog slowly and calmly; kneel down and say his name. If the dog shows aggression, call for help. If he’s passive, fashion a makeshift stretcher and gently lift him onto it. Take care to support his neck and back in case he’s suffered any spinal injuries.

Once you feel confident and safe transporting your dog, immediately bring him to an emergency care facility. It’s also a smart idea to ask someone-a friend or family member-to call the clinic, so the staff expects you and your dog.

What Are Some First Aid Treatments I Can Perform on My Dog?

Most emergencies require immediate veterinary care, but first aid methods may help you stabilize your pet for transportation.

• If your dog is suffering from external bleeding due to trauma, try elevating and applying pressure to the wound.


• If your dog is choking, place your fingers in his mouth to see if you can remove the blockage.


• If you’re unable to remove the foreign object, perform a modified Heimlich maneuver by giving a sharp rap, which should dislodge the object, to his chest.

Should I Perform CPR on My Dog?

CPR may be necessary if you remove the object your dog is choking on, but he is still unconscious. First check to see if he’s breathing. If not, place him on his side and perform artificial respiration by extending his head and neck, holding his jaws closed and blowing into his nostrils once every three seconds. (Ensure no air escapes between your mouth and the dog’s nose.) If you don’t feel a heartbeat, incorporate cardiac massage while administering artificial respiration-three quick, firm chest compressions for every respiration-until your dog resumes breathing on his own.

What Should I Do If My Dog Eats Something Poisonous?

If you suspect your pet has ingested a toxic substance, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435. Trained toxicologists will consider the age and health of your pet, what and how much he ate, and then make a recommendation-such as whether to induce vomiting-based on their assessment.

WebMD Veterinary Reference from ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist

The ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist specializes in the resolution and management of pet behavior problems only. Please do not submit questions about medical problems here. Only licensed veterinarians can diagnose medical conditions. If you think that your pet is sick, injured or experiencing any kind of physical distress, please contact his veterinarian immediately. A delay in seeking proper veterinary care may worsen your pet's condition and put his life at risk. If you are concerned about the cost of veterinary care, please read our resources on finding financial help.

© 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

Vaccination Schedule: Noncore

Young puppies are highly susceptible to certain infectious diseases and should be vaccinated against them as soon as they are old enough to build immunity. These diseases are distemper, infectious hepatitis, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and rabies. Leptospirosis, giardia, coronavirus, bordetella, bronchiseptica, and Lyme diseasevaccinations are optional, depending on the occurrence of these diseases in your area and your dog’s individual risk factors.

The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) has drawn up guidelines categorizing vaccines as core or noncore, and these categories will be indicated for all the vaccines described in this section.

Leptospirosis Bacterin (Noncore)

Leptospira bacterins may protect against two or four of the most common subspecies of bacteria that cause leptospirosis. The two-serovar bacterin may be incorporated into a DHPP shot given at 12 weeks of age and again at 14 to 16 weeks of age. Many veterinarians give the four-serovar bacterin as a separate injection as early as 12 weeks and then two to three weeks later.

Leptospira bacterin has been responsible for 70 percent of post-vaccination DHLPP anaphylactic shock reactions. Toy breeds and puppies younger than 12 weeks old seem to have the highest rate of reactions to this bacterin. In addition, the two-serovar vaccines do not protect against the two species that are currently responsible for the majority of cases. Accordingly, routine vaccination is now considered optional. It is still indicated in areas where the risk of the disease is greater than the risk of the vaccination. Leptospirosis is not contained in all the combination vaccines and can be given separately.

Both Fort Dodge and Pfizer have vaccines that now cover all four of the primary serovars of leptospirosis. These are subunit vaccines, so there is less chance of an allergic reaction to the vaccine. With leptospirosis cases on the rise, this vaccine may be recommended in more areas. Immunity following vaccination averages about four to six months. Therefore, if vaccination is important, it may be advisable to revaccinate every six months. Discuss this with your veterinarian.

Canine Parainfluenza (Noncore)

Parainfluenza is the principal virus implicated in the kennel cough complex. Vaccines will decrease the prevalence and severity of the infection, but will not prevent the disease. Parainfluenza is incorporated into the canine distemper-measles-parainfluenza and DHPP shots. The first dose is given at 8 to 12 weeks of age and the second at 16 weeks. AAHA 2006 guidelines are to give the vaccine at 6 to 8 weeks of age, then every three to four weeks until the dog is 12 to 14 weeks of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until a puppy is 7 or 8 weeks of age to start vaccinations. An intranasal vaccine that combines the bordetella vaccine is also available.

The injectable parainfluenza vaccine protects dogs but does not eliminate the virus from nasal secretions. That means dogs can still transmit the infection. The intranasal vaccine protects against both disease and infection, thus eliminating the possibility of transmitting the disease to other dogs.

Annual boosters are recommended by the manufacturer. However, evidence suggests that parainfluenza vaccines do not always protect for the full 12 months, and in many cases should be given twice a year, especially for dogs at increased risk. This recommendation is only for the parainfluenza vaccine-not for the other viruses that are often included in a combination vaccine. This is not a core vaccine, so it should only be given to dogs with lifestyles that increase their risk, such as show dogs and dogs who will be boarded.

Bordetella (Noncore)

Bordetella bronchiseptica vaccines are of some help in controlling kennel cough and other respiratory infections caused by this bacteria. Show dogs, boarded dogs, and dogs living in kennels may benefit from this optional protection.

There are two vaccine types available to prevent bordetella. One is an intranasal vaccine and the other is injectable. The intranasal vaccine, which protects against parainfluenza as well as bordetella, gives the most immediate immunity-although either type of vaccine should ideally be given at least one week before possible exposures.

The injectable bacterin must be given twice. The first injection is given at 8 weeks of age and is repeated two to four weeks later. Puppies born in high-risk areas where bordetella is prevalent can be vaccinated with the intranasal vaccine at 3 weeks of age.

Annual boosters are recommended by the manufacturer. But because of the short duration of immunity, semi-annual boosters may be more appropriate.

Lyme Disease (Noncore)

Lyme disease (also called Borrelia burgdorferi) vaccine is recommended only for dogs in high-risk areas. This includes dogs visiting areas where Lyme disease is prevalent and areas with a high risk of tick exposure.

The killed bacterin version is now out of favor and the subunit vaccine, featuring the OpsA antigen, is recommended if the vaccine is needed. The immunity from this vaccine can be distinguished from a natural exposure. Tick control should be the first line of defense against Lyme disease.

Ticks Can Transmit Lyme Disease

Ticks are external parasites that feed on the blood of unlucky host animals such as our canine companions. Like mites and spiders, ticks are arachnids. The brown dog tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus) and the American dog tick (Dermacentor variabilis), examples of ticks that commonly affect dogs, require three feedings to complete their life cycles.

How Are Ticks Transmitted to Dogs?

Ticks are most active in from spring through fall and live in tall brush or grass, where they may attach to dogs playing on their turf. These parasites prefer to stay close to the head, neck, feet and ear area. In severe infestations, however, they can be found anywhere on a dog’s body.

How Do I Know if My Dog Has Ticks?

Ticks are visible to the naked eye. During the warmer months, it’s a good idea to check your dog regularly for these parasites. If you do spot a tick, it is important to take care when removing it. Any contact with the tick’s blood can potentially transmit infection to your dog or even to you! Treat the area with rubbing alcohol and pluck the parasite with tweezers, making sure you’ve gotten the biting head and other body parts. Since it may only take a few hours for disease to be transmitted from an attached tick, it is ideal for your dog to be evaluated by a veterinarian soon after any ticks are found.

Make Bathing Your Dog Enjoyable

Ever watched your dog roll on the ground, lick her coat or chew at a mat on her fur? These are her ways of keeping clean.

Sometimes, though, she’ll need a little extra help from her friend to look her best.

Make Grooming as Enjoyable as Possible—For the Both of You!

Grooming sessions should always be fun, so be sure to schedule them when your dog’s relaxed, especially if she’s the excitable type. Until your pet is used to being groomed, keep the sessions short—just 5 to 10 minutes. Gradually lengthen the time until it becomes routine for your dog. You can help her get comfortable with being touched and handled by making a habit of petting every single part of your dog, including such potentially sensitive areas as the ears, tail, belly, back and feet.

And here’s one of our most important tips of all—pile on the praise and offer your pooch a treat when the session is finished!

Brushing

Regular grooming with a brush or comb will help keep your pet’s hair in good condition by removing dirt, spreading natural oils throughout her coat, preventing tangles and keeping her skin clean and irritant-free. And grooming time’s a great time to check for fleas and flea dirt--those little black specks that indicate your pet is playing host to a flea family.

If your dog has a smooth, short coat (like that of a chihuahua, boxer or basset hound), you only need to brush once a week:

• First, use a rubber brush to loosen dead skin and dirt.


• Next, use a bristle brush to remove dead hair.


• Now, polish your low-maintenance pooch with a chamois cloth and she’s ready to shine!

If your dog has short, dense fur that’s prone to matting, like that of a retriever, here’s your weekly routine:

• Use a slicker brush to remove tangles.


• Next, catch dead hair with a bristle brush.


• Don’t forget to comb her tail.

If your dog has a long, luxurious coat, such as that of a Yorkshire terrier, she’ll need daily attention:

• Every day you’ll need to remove tangles with a slicker brush.


• Gently tease mats out with a slicker brush.


• Next, brush her coat with a bristle brush.


• If you have a long-haired dog with a coat like a collie’s or an Afghan hound’s, follow the steps above, and also be sure to comb through the fur and trim the hair around the hocks and feet.

Bathing

The ASPCA recommends bathing your dog every 3 months or so; your pet may require more frequent baths in the summertime if she spends lots of time with your outdoors. Always use a mild shampoo that’s safe to use on dogs, and follow these easy steps:

• First, give your pet a good brushing to remove all dead hair and mats.


• Place a rubber bath mat in the bathtub to provide secure footing, and fill the tub with about 3 to 4 inches of lukewarm water.


• Use a spray hose to thoroughly wet your pet, taking care not to spray directly in her ears, eyes or nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, a large plastic pitcher or unbreakable cup will do.


• Gently massage in shampoo, working from head to tail.


• Thoroughly rinse with a spray hose or pitcher; again, avoid the ears, eyes and nose.


• Check the ears for any foul odors or excessive debris; if you choose to use a cleansing solution on a cotton ball, take care not to insert it into the ear canal.


• Dry your pet with a large towel or blow dryer, but carefully monitor the level of heat.

Please note: Some animals seem to think that bathtime is a perfect time to act goofy. Young puppies especially will wiggle and bounce all over the place while you try to brush them, and tend to nip at bathtime. If this sounds like your pet, put a toy that floats in the tub with her so she can focus on the toy rather than on mouthing you.

Nail Clipping

Most people really don’t handle their dog’s feet until they are about to clip the nails and then…watch out! Some animals can get very upset at this totally foreign feeling. That’s why it’s a good idea to get your dog used to having her feet touched before you attempt a nail trim. Rub your hand up and down her leg and then gently press each individual toe—and be sure to give her lots of praise and some food treats as you do this. Every animal is different, but chances are that within a week or two of daily foot massage, your dog will be better able to tolerate a trim. Here’s how to do it:

• Begin by spreading each of your dog’s feet to inspect for dirt and debris.


• Use sharp, guillotine-type nail clippers to cut off the tip of each nail at a slight angle, just before the point where it begins to curve.


• Take care to avoid the quick, a vein that runs into the nail. This pink area can be seen through the nail. If your dog has black nails, however, the quick will not be as easily discernible, so be extra careful.


• If you do accidentally cut into the quick, it may bleed, in which case you can apply some styptic powder to stop the bleeding.Once the nails have been cut, use an emery board to smooth any rough edges.

Special Breeds, Special Needs

Dogs with loose facial skin or wrinkles—such as shar peis and pugs—will need special attention. To prevent dirt and bacteria from causing irritation and infection, clean the folds with damp cotton. Always thoroughly dry the areas between the folds.

If your dog has long or droopy ears, you should check them weekly. Remove wax and dirt from your pet’s ears with a cotton ball moistened with water or a little mineral oil. You may need to remove any excess hair leading into the ear canal; ask your pet’s vet or groomer to show you how before trying it at home. There are special hair removers that allow you to carefully pull one strand at a time.

Spaying or Neutering Your Dog FAQ

An estimated 5 million to 8 million animals are euthanized in shelters across this country every year. Many organizations are trying to decrease that number by opening low-cost spay/neuter clinics to prevent more litters of puppies needing homes. One such organization is LifeLine Animal Project, an Atlanta-based nonprofit shelter and clinic that has performed more than 25,000 spay/neuters since 2005. WebMD talked to executive director Rebecca Guinn to learn about the myths and facts surrounding spaying and neutering.

Q: Why should I have my dog spayed or neutered?

A: Shelter euthanasia is the number one killer of companion animals. Spaying and neutering is the only way to reduce or eliminate that.

It’s also better for your pet’s health. And it’s better for you because it will make your life easier if your pet is spayed or neutered. Animals can be miserable -- and make you miserable -- when they are in heat. And then there’s always the problem of what to do with the puppies.

There’s also the financial side. Just in the Atlanta area alone, more than $15 million is spent annually dealing with stray and unwanted pets. That’s your tax dollars.

Q: Shouldn’t I let my dog have a litter before I spay her?

A: No. Absolutely not. All the medical evidence suggests a dog should be spayed before her first heat. It’s much easier for her then because it’s a much easier surgery at that time.

And the problem with letting your dog have a litter is you’ve just instantly contributed to the pet overpopulation problem. Now you have to find homes for all those puppies. And for each home you find, there’s one less home for a dog that was already born. Plus, you can’t be responsible for what the new owners do. So unless you spay or neuter all the puppies before placing them, the new owners may let their dog breed as well. Now you’ve added even more dogs to the pet overpopulation problem.

The only responsible thing to do, given the problem in this country, is to not allow your pets to reproduce.

Some people say they want their children to witness birth. OK, you can still do that. There are plenty of rescue groups out there trying to help animals that have been abandoned by irresponsible pet owners. Many have pregnant animals. Volunteer to foster a pregnant dog. You’ll be helping the group as well as the dog, and you’ll give your children a chance to see a litter being born and raised.

Q: Should I let my dog have a heat before I spay her?

A: Medically, it’s better to spay your dog before her first heat. It greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors. People who wait to spay their dogs until after their second heat greatly increase the risk of mammary tumors in their pets. Once they’ve had several heats, intact female dogs have a one out of four chance of developing mammary tumors.

Q: Is it OK to spay my dog when she’s a puppy?

A: We spay or neuter dogs at our clinic at 8 weeks as long as they weigh at least two pounds. Of course, it varies by breed. Some of the tiny breeds have to be done later. But larger breeds are usually ready by two months of age.

There are still some people who say pediatric spay/neuter is dangerous, but that’s not true. It has become much more widely accepted. Those ideas about needing to wait until after a dog is six months or a year old are really antiquated and the evidence is to the contrary. Even the American Veterinary Medical Association supports early spay/neuter.

The puppies recover a lot faster than adults. It’s an easier surgery for them, and it reduces the rate of disease later on. It’s just a much easier procedure on younger animals.

Q: It can cost hundreds of dollars to get a dog spayed or neutered. I can’t afford that. What can I do?

A: There are a lot of low-cost options all over the country. We have a low-cost spay/neuter clinic in the Atlanta area and we spay dogs for as little as $70. The ASPCA keeps a database of low-cost options on its web site. You can put in your zip code, and it will give you all your options within a certain radius. Click on the “pet care” tab and look for the low-cost and free spay/neuter database.

Q: Don’t dogs get fat once you spay or neuter them?

A: Dogs, just like people, get fat when they eat too much and don’t get enough exercise. And that’s something you can control. You can use portion control and take your dog for a walk.

Q: My dog is a guard dog. If I spay or neuter him, will that stop him from protecting my house?

A: Spaying or neutering is not going to affect your dog’s desire or ability to protect your home or protect you. Guard dogs are trained to be guard dogs. Their behavior is a function of genetics or instinct, environment, and training.

Many, many police canine units spay or neuter their dogs. There’s no correlation between spaying or neutering an animal and its ability to protect you.

But people also need to understand that unless their dog has been trained to be a guard dog, it isn’t a guard dog. Most dogs are naturally protective, but if you truly need a dog for protection, and your dog isn’t trained, you’re at risk.

Q: Will my dog stop running away from home if I neuter him?

A: Well, you really should keep your dog confined. But neutering certainly does decrease the instinct to roam. That’s because unneutered dogs are constantly seeking to match up with unspayed females. It also will decrease your dog’s urge to escape your home or escape your fence. But in this day and age, there’s no reason to allow a dog to freely roam the streets. It’s dangerous.

Q: My dog leaves marks all over my house. If I neuter him, will that stop?

A: Neutering a dog will decrease and could eliminate that kind of marking, which is a territorial behavior. That’s what they’re doing; they’re marking their territory to ward off other male dogs that could come into it and get their female. So neutering may eliminate the problem. But there also could be other health issues or behavioral issues involved at this point. So it’s a really good argument for neutering early, before the animal reaches sexual maturity and the marking behavior has become habit.

Q: Will spaying or neutering my dog prevent future illnesses?

A: Yes, absolutely. In females, it greatly decreases mammarian cancer and completely eliminates uterine cancers and diseases. In males, it eliminates testicular cancers or diseases and can lower the risk of prostate cancer. Generally, spayed and neutered pets live longer, happier lives.

Compulsive Behavior in Dogs

The word “compulsive” describes the repetitive, irresistible urge to perform a behavior. A dog who displays compulsive behavior repeatedly performs one or more behaviors over and over, to the extent that it interferes with his normal life. The behavior he's doing doesn't seem to have any purpose, but he's compelled to do it anyway. Some dogs will spend almost all their waking hours engaging in repetitive behaviors. They might lose weight, suffer from exhaustion and even physically injure themselves. Dogs display many different kinds of compulsions, such as spinning, pacing, tail chasing, fly snapping, barking, shadow or light chasing, excessive licking and toy fixation. It's important to note that normal dogs also engage in behaviors like barking and licking, but they usually do so in response to specific triggers.

Some breeds are more likely to develop certain compulsive disorders. For instance, many Doberman pinschers, golden retrievers and Labrador retrievers have excessive licking problems (also known as acral lick dermatitis or lick granuloma).Doberman pinschers seem to engage in flank sucking more often than other breeds. Bull terriers repetitively spin more often than other breeds. German shepherd dogs seem vulnerable to tail-chasing compulsions. Sometimes they even bite and chew their tails when they “catch” them, causing hair loss or serious injury.

Compulsive behavior can develop for a number of reasons. Sometimes dogs start compulsive behaviors for no obvious reason at all. Other dogs develop compulsions after having physical conditions that cause them to lick or chew their bodies. For example, if your dog injures his paw and licks it, he might continue his repetitive licking behavior after his injury has completely healed. A dog's lifestyle can sometimes contribute to the development compulsive behavior. For example, repetitive behavior is more likely to develop in dogs whose living conditions cause anxiety or stress. Examples of dogs in situations that can contribute to the development of compulsive disorders include:

• Dogs who are frequently tied up or confined and forced to live in small areas


• Dogs who experience social conflict, such as a long separation from a companion or frequent aggression from other dogs in the family


• Dogs who lack opportunities to engage in normal canine behavior, such as socializing with people and other dogs


• Dogs who deal with conflicting emotions or motivations (for instance, a dog needs to go into the yard to relieve himself but is afraid to enter the area because of a frightening experience that once took place there)


• Dogs who are physically abused or punished randomly and unpredictably

Research has shown that although conflict and anxiety in a dog's life can initially trigger a compulsive disorder, the compulsive behavior might continue to happen after the stressful elements in a dog's life have been eliminated.

Common Compulsive Behaviors

• Spinning Some dog spin in place and aren't easily distracted when doing so.


• Pacing Some dogs walk or trot along a specific path in a fixed pattern. Pacing can be in a circle or in a straight line.


• Tail chasing A dog runs in a tight circle, as if chasing his tail. Tail chasing may include physical damage to the tail or just the motion of chasing it.


• Fly snapping Some dogs chomp at the air, as if they're trying to catch imaginary flies.


• Barking Some dogs barks almost nonstop when there is no apparent trigger.


• Toy fixation Some dogs repeatedly pounce on, push, chew or toss a certain toy or toys in the air. Often the pattern of play is repetitive. This kind of compulsive behavior frequently occurs in a specific room, but a dog might engage in compulsive behavior with specific toys in any room.


• Shadow or light chasing A dog chases shadows or light.


• Self-Injurious chewing, licking or scratching Some dogs inflict injury to themselves through frequently chewing, licking or scratching some part of his body over and over. NOTE: Dogs who excessively or compulsively lick or chew themselves must be taken to a veterinarian to rule out physical causes, such as pain and itching.


• Flank sucking Some dogs suck on the fur or skin on their flanks (the area above the thigh).


• Licking surfaces or objects Some dogs frequently lick a surface or an object (for example, a spot on the floor or couch) over and over again.


• Excessive water drinking Some dogs repetitively drink water, even when they're not thirsty.

Rule Out Medical Problems First

Underlying medical problems or other physical situations often create conditions that irritate dogs and can cause them to react with behavior that looks compulsive to pet parents. A dog with allergies, parasites, a skin condition or pain will lick or bite the affected area constantly. In addition to specific irritations, medical conditions that can affect your dog's behavior include epilepsy, head injuries, bacterial or viral infections, and poor vision. In all of these situations, the underlying medical problem must be treated by a veterinarian before behavioral treatment will help.

Other Behavior Problems to Rule Out

Separation-Induced Barking

A dog only barks excessively or shows evidence of self-injurious behavior or other compulsions when he's left alone or separated from his owner. Please see our article, Separation Anxiety, for more information about this kind of behavior problem.

Cognitive Dysfunction

Age-related cognitive dysfunction can contribute to compulsive behavior. If he's older (over six years of age) and performing compulsive behaviors, your dog might be suffering from cognitive dysfunction. Other symptoms of cognitive dysfunction include disorientation, a decrease in social interaction and forgetting previously learned behaviors. To learn more about cognitive dysfunction and other behavior problems commonly seen in older dogs, please see our article, Behavior Problems in Older Dogs.

What to Do About Your Dog's Compulsive Behavior

Treating compulsive disorders can prove challenging because compulsions can result from both learned behavior and chemical imbalances in the brain. The standard treatment approach involves a combination of behavior modification and drug therapy. If possible, all situations that trigger a dog's compulsive behavior should be avoided or counterconditioned. Additionally, drastic increases in mental and physical stimulation can help.

Identify and Remove the Problem

Identify stressful things or situations that seem to trigger your dog's compulsive behavior. If you're able to identify triggers and remove them, you can greatly reduce your dog's stress level. Of course, it's not always possible to avoid or get rid of the thing or situation that seems to upset your dog. For example, if your dog is anxious during thunderstorms, you certainly can't keep those from happening! If you can't remove stressful triggers, you'll need to do some training to help your dog feel differently about whatever's causing his anxiety. You can accomplish this goal by using a procedure called desensitization and counterconditioning (DSCC).

Train Your Dog

If you use methods based on positive reinforcement (rewarding your dog for behaviors you like so that they happen more often), teaching your dog some useful obedience skills will strengthen the relationship between the two of you. It will also provide an opportunity for you to interact with your dog in a positive way. To learn more about dog training, please see our article, Training Your Dog. After you've taught your dog a few useful skills, you can use them in your treatment plan. Read on to learn how.

Distract and Redirect Your Dog's Attention

As soon as your dog starts to engage in a compulsive behavior, distract him. Give him something else to do. You can use food, toys, play or praise. (However, if your dog is toy-fixated, avoid trying to distract him with another toy.) Try offering a food-filled puzzle toy, such as a KONG™ stuffed with peanut butter, or give your dog a rawhide to chew. You can also ask your dog to perform a previously learned behavior or trick that he can't do at the same time as the compulsive behavior. For example, if your dog starts to spin or chase his tail, you can ask him to sit or lie down. If your dog starts to lick, you can ask him to shake or perform another trick instead. Sometimes this is enough to stop the compulsive cycle before it begins. Keep in mind that you need to teach your dog these new skills in advance, when he's not stressed, before you can use them to distract him from performing a compulsive behavior. Once your dog reliably responds when you ask him to do something you've taught him in a stress-free environment, you can start to integrate that skill into his daily routine and use it whenever you see compulsive behavior begin.

Provide Plenty of “Jobs” for Your Dog to Do

Providing lots of physical and mental stimulation is a vital part of treating many behavior problems, especially compulsive disorders. Exercising your dog's mind and body can greatly enrich his life, decrease stress and provide appropriate outlets for normal dog behaviors. Additionally, a physically and mentally tired dog doesn't have much excess energy to engage in compulsive behaviors. To keep your dog busy and happy, try the following suggestions:

• Give your dog at least 30 minutes of aerobic activity (for example, running and swimming) every day-and at any time when he might encounter a stressful situation. This will help him relax and remain calm.


• Play fun, interactive games with your dog, such as fetch and tug-of-war. (If you'd like more information, please see our articles, Teaching Your Dog to Play Tug-of-War and Teaching Your Dog to Play Fetch.)


• Take your dog on daily walks and outings. Take different routes and visit new places as often as possible so that he can experience novel smells and sights.


• If your dog likes other dogs, let him play off-leash with his canine buddies.


• Frequently provide food puzzle toys, like the KONG®, the Buster® Cube, the Tricky Treat™ Ball and the Tug-a-Jug™. (To learn more about how to use puzzle toys, please see our article, How to Stuff a KONG Toy.) You can feed your dog his meals in these toys or stuff them with a little peanut butter, cheese or yogurt. Also give your dog a variety of attractive edible and inedible chew things, especially during stressful times. Puzzle toys and chew items encourage chewing and licking, which have been shown to have a calming effect on dogs.


• Make your dog “hunt” his meals by hiding small piles of his kibble around your house or yard when you leave. Most dogs love this game!


• Enroll in a reward-based training class to increase your dog's mental activity and enhance the bond between you and your dog. Contact a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) for group or private classes that can give you and your dog lots of great skills to learn and games to play together. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CPDT in your area.


• Get involved in dog sports, such as agility, freestyle (dancing with your dog) or flyball.

For more fun, effective ways to spice up your dog's life with physical and mental exercise, please see our articles, Enriching Your Dog's Life and Exercise for Dogs.

Systematic Desensitization and Counterconditioning

Systematic desensitization and counterconditioning are two treatments that are often used together in a single procedure to reduce or resolve behavior problems that occur as reactions to certain triggers and situations. Systematic desensitization is designed to decrease (desensitize) a dog's overreaction to something in a step-by-step (systematic) way. It helps the dog to habituate to, or become more comfortable with, a thing, person, other animal, place or situation that upsets him.

Counterconditioning, performed together with desensitization, involves giving the dog things he really likes, such as delicious treats or favorite toys, while he's being shown or exposed to whatever upsets him. This process changes (counters) the dog's feelings about the trigger. Changing his emotional response to the trigger leads to changes in behavior. If the dog feels differently, he'll act differently.

For instance, a dog who fears being handled reacts by tensing his body, cowering and growling when he sees a hand reaching toward him. One way of changing those learned responses is to teach the dog to feel good about a hand reaching toward him. You could teach the dog to expect a tasty treat or a game of chase (good things he likes) right after hands reach toward him, and the dog's emotional reaction to hands reaching for him would change.

Alternatively, you could teach the dog to perform a specific behavior, such as touching his nose to or backing away from the outstretched hand, for a reward. Changing the dog's behavior can lead to changes in his emotional response as well. It's possible, however, that the dog will remain frightened while still performing the new behavior. In most cases, it's best to treat the dog's underlying emotional state first (through desensitization and counterconditioning) and then focus on teaching him a specific, alternative behavior.

For a thorough explanation of these combined treatments, please see our article, Desensitization and Counterconditioning.

Desensitization and counterconditioning are complex and can be tricky to carry out. Fear must be avoided or the procedure will backfire and the dog will get more frightened. Because treatment must progress and change according to the dog's reactions, and because these reactions can be difficult to read and interpret, desensitization and counterconditioning require the guidance of a trained and experienced professional. For help designing and carrying out a desensitization and counterconditioning plan, please read our Finding Professional Help article for information about locating a qualified professional in your area, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or Associate CAAB) or a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior (Dip ACVB). If you decide to hire a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) because you can't find a behaviorist in your area, be sure to determine whether she or he has professional or academic training and extensive experience using desensitization and counterconditioning to successfully treat compulsive behaviors. This kind of expertise isn't required for CPDT certification.

What NOT to Do

Do not punish or scold your dog for compulsive behavior. Compulsive behaviors are not the result of disobedience or spite. They are distress responses! Your dog is performing repetitive behaviors because he's anxious and upset. If you punish him, he may become even more upset and the problem could get much worse.
Do not give your dog attention, like petting and praise, when he performs compulsive behaviors because doing so might cause an increase in those behaviors.

Medications May Help

Always consult with your veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist before giving your dog any type of medication for a behavior problem.

In some cases, it can be helpful to use medication in addition to training and enrichment. If your dog is so anxious or stressed by whatever upsets him that his compulsive behavior cannot be stopped or redirected, or if he shows improvement for a time but then seems to stop improving, medication might be needed to make your treatment plan effective. Medications may also be necessary for dogs who have been engaging in compulsive behavior for a long time. If your veterinarian prescribes a medication for your dog's compulsive behavior, be prepared to give it to your dog every day. Keep in mind that it may take a few weeks before you see changes in your dog's behavior.

The ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist specializes in the resolution and management of pet behavior problems only. Please do not submit questions about medical problems here. Only licensed veterinarians can diagnose medical conditions. If you think that your pet is sick, injured or experiencing any kind of physical distress, please contact his veterinarian immediately. A delay in seeking proper veterinary care may worsen your pet's condition and put his life at risk.

If you are concerned about the cost of veterinary care, please read our resources on finding financial help.

© 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

Source: WebMD.com
http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/compulsive-behavior-dogs

Overweight Dogs and Canine Weight Loss Diets ( 2 )

Don't Give In to Begging

If your overweight dog whines and cries for more food, hold firm. “That causes a lot of owners to buckle,” Tams says. Murray says: “Your dog will certainly whine if he knows that will get him more treats and snacks.” If you're serving the correct portion, more food will only contribute to weight issues.

Diet Dog Food: Making the Switch

If that doesn't do the trick, it may be time for diet dog food. Gimeno attributes certain brands of chow and lack of exercise to Lolita's weight problem. And because smaller breeds are more susceptible to heart failure, she decided to visit her veterinarian and take action. With a diet of organic brands such as Newman's Own and AvoDerm, and more walks in the park, Lolita shed her excess weight. Both Murray and Tams advocate this type of dog diet. Consult with your vet on the right food for your canine. Factors such as size, age and overall health dictate the type and/or brand. Your vet may even suggest a prescription dog food. “Some diet foods that are higher in certain types of fiber can help a dog feel fuller, while ingesting fewer calories,” Murray says. If you do decide to switch to diet dog food, do so slowly, each day mixing in more and more of the healthier fare.

Get Your Overweight Dog Exercising

Exercise is as important for pets as it is for humans. If you don't have the time, hire a dog walker or a teenager looking for some extra cash. “Doggy day care centers are a great option if everyone is gone during the day,” Tams says. “Your dog can run and play all day long.” Tams advocates 10-15 minutes of activity several times per day. If you live in a hot area, exercise early in the morning or late at night. For heavier dogs with joint problems or those that overheat easily, swimming is a great alternative.

When to Try an Rx for Your Overweight Dog

If  diet and exercise just aren't working, medication could help, but only as a last resort. Tams recommends Pfizer Animal Health's prescription drug Slentrol. “We always try exercise and diet modification first,” he says. “But some animals have seen weight loss with Slentrol, which helps to decrease appetite and fat absorption.”

Still Not Losing? Maybe it's Medical

If cutting out unhealthy snacks and table scraps, serving diet dog food, increasing physical activity, and/or medication don't do the trick, an underlying health condition likely triggered the weight gain. “That's why consultation with a vet who can perform blood work is so important,” Tams says. Your vet will check for:

• Low thyroid level


• Hormonal imbalances, such as Cushing's disease, an excess of adrenal hormones

Just like people, overweight dogs can face a litany of health issues, so a diet may save your pet's life. Among the potentially devastating consequences of obesity:

• Trouble breathing


• Greater risk for heat stroke


• Pancreatitis


• Diabetes


• Orthopedic concerns


• Comprised immune system


• Reduction in lifespan


• Mammary tumors (particularly in un-spayed females)


• Skin conditions

How Long Will It Take to See Results?

As with people, aim for gradual weight loss and expect significant improvement to take several months. “The ideal would be a loss of 1% to 2% of the initial weight per week,” Tams says.

Once you've achieved success, maintain the weight loss by sticking to what you know. “Hopefully while achieving your dog's weight loss goals, you both developed some healthier habits,” Murray says. “Stick to these: avoiding between-meal snacks and treats, regular exercise, and controlled food portions. Getting the whole family into healthy-dog habits is essential for long-term weight management.”

SOURCES:

Todd R. Tams, DVM, Diplomate ACVIM and chief medical officer of VCA Antech.

Louise Murray, DVM, Diplomate ACVIM and director of medicine for the ASPCA's Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital.

Marissa Gimeno, dog owner.

© 2009 WebMD, LLC. All rights reserved.

Source: WebMD.com
http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/overweight-dogs-and-canine-weight-loss-diets

Overweight Dogs and Canine Weight Loss Diets

For stylist Marissa Gimeno, 32, of Brooklyn, N.Y., it didn't take a rocket scientist -- or even a veterinarian -- for her to realize that her 8-year-old dog, Lolita, needed to slim down. “She was about two pounds overweight,” she says. “For a Chihuahua, that's hard to miss.”

Is Your Dog Overweight?

To tell if your pet could shed a few, feel around his ribs and spine. You should be able to locate both, with only a thin layer of fat separating the skin from the bones. If you can't find the ribcage, you have an overweight dog.

Ask your veterinarian to evaluate your pooch's size at every check-up. Once your canine reaches maturity, ask for his optimal weight. As a rule of thumb, 15% above that weight is obese; zero to 15% is overweight. If your dog falls into either category, he is not alone. Among industrialized nations, 20% of dogs are overweight or obese.

Tips for Weighing Your Dog

Hit the scales periodically (weekly or monthly) to make sure you're on track. “Your vet will be happy to let you use the scale at the office,” says Louise Murray, DVM, Diplomate ACVIM and director of medicine for the ASPCA's Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. If that's not convenient, step on a scale at home. Then step on again, this time holding your pet. Subtract the difference for your dog's weight. For small breeds, invest in a baby scale. “Regardless of the method, it's imperative that your pet is weighed on the same scale consistently,” says Todd R. Tams, DVM, Diplomate ACVIM and chief medical officer of VCA Antech.

Overweight Dogs: Blame the Breed

Some breeds are prone to obesity, while others (Greyhounds, German Shepherds, Yorkshire Terriers), are typically slim. Small breeds with a propensity for heftiness include:

• Cairn Terriers


• Dachshunds


• Scottish Terriers


• Cavalier King Charles Spaniels

Medium breeds:

• Beagles


• Cocker Spaniels


• Basset Hounds

Large breeds:

• Labs


• Golden Retrievers


• Rottweilers

Giant breeds:

• Bernese Mountain Dogs


• Newfoundlands


• Saint Bernards

Are You Making Your Dog Fat?

Another, non-genetic reason for an overweight dog is more obvious: YOU, the owner, may be over-indulging your pet, most likely with treats or people food. “Food is love, and people want to make their pets happy,” Tams says. “Very often, it is not the dog's official food that is causing the weight problem, it is all the additional treats and/or snacks between meals,” Murray says.

Portion Control is Key

Knowing the correct serving size of food for your overweight dog is imperative for success. Companies often place information on labels or include charts on their web sites. But because many variables, such as size, are factored into the equation, get advice from your veterinarian on how often and how much to feed your dog.

Putting Your Dog on a Diet

After you've verified that your furry friend needs to slim down, consider everything he eats on a daily basis. “Do an honest assessment, covering all treats/snacks, including those given by other family members, neighbors, dog sitters, and dog walkers,” Murray says. “You may find all you need to do is cut these out.”

You don't necessarily have to nix treats altogether. “Be realistic -- if you or your family likes to give them, it's unlikely that a no-treat policy will succeed,” Murray says. “Choose healthy alternatives, such as veggies or rice cakes, and decide at the beginning of each day exactly how many the dog is allowed; put this amount in a bowl, and when they're gone, they're gone.”

Another tactic to try is reducing portions. Murray recommends immediately cutting daily food intake by 15% to 20% for a six- to eight-week period, then analyzing the results. Additionally, your veterinarian can calculate the exact amount of calories your pet needs per day to lose weight based on his current size, ideal body weight, energy level, and general health.

...to be continued

Exercising With Your Dog

Dogs are born to work for a living. They've worked alongside us for thousands of years, and most are bred for a particular purpose, like hunting, herding livestock or providing protection. Dogs' wild relatives spend most of their waking hours scavenging and hunting for food, caring for offspring, defending territory and playing with each other. They lead busy, complex lives, interacting socially and solving simple problems necessary for their survival.

The most common job for our companion dogs today, however, is Couch Potato! They no longer have to earn their keep and instead have to adjust to our more sedentary lifestyles. They get their food for free in a bowl and are often confined, alone and inactive, for most of the day. This lack of purpose leaves dogs no outlet for their naturally active tendencies-physical and mental-and it contributes to the development of behavior problems.

Another problem modern dogs face because they rarely work anymore is a lack of opportunities to exercise. Some pet parents make the mistake of assuming that if a dog has access to a yard, she's getting exercise. But your dog doesn't run laps by herself in your yard-or do much of anything besides waiting for you to come outside or let her back inside. It's the interaction with you that counts!

Dogs are born to work for a living. They've worked alongside us for thousands of years, and most are bred for a particular purpose, like hunting, herding livestock or providing protection. Dogs' wild relatives spend most of their waking hours scavenging and hunting for food, caring for offspring, defending territory and playing with each other. They lead busy, complex lives, interacting socially and solving simple problems necessary for their survival.

The most common job for our companion dogs today, however, is Couch Potato! They no longer have to earn their keep and instead have to adjust to our more sedentary lifestyles. They get their food for free in a bowl and are often confined, alone and inactive, for most of the day. This lack of purpose leaves dogs no outlet for their naturally active tendencies-physical and mental-and it contributes to the development of behavior problems.

Another problem modern dogs face because they rarely work anymore is a lack of opportunities to exercise. Some pet parents make the mistake of assuming that if a dog has access to a yard, she's getting exercise. But your dog doesn't run laps by herself in your yard-or do much of anything besides waiting for you to come outside or let her back inside. It's the interaction with you that counts!

Problems That Result from Lack of Exercise and Play

Dogs can be like young children. If you don't give them something constructive to do with their energy, they'll find something to do on their own-and you may not like it! Some of the most common behavior problems seen in dogs who don't get enough exercise and play are:

• Destructive chewing, digging or scratching


• Investigative behaviors, like garbage raiding


• Hyperactivity, excitability and night-time activity


• Unruliness, knocking over furniture and jumping up on people


• Excessive predatory and social play


• Play biting and rough play


• Attention-getting behaviors like barking and whining

Benefits of Exercise and Play

The good news is that keeping your dog healthy, happy and out of trouble with daily exercise is a lot of fun and provides many benefits, including:

• Helps to reduce or eliminate the common behavior problems listed above, such as digging, excessive barking, chewing and hyperactivity


• Helps to keep dogs healthy, agile and limber


• Helps to reduce digestive problems and constipation


• Helps timid or fearful dogs build confidence and trust


• Helps dogs feel sleepy, rather than restless, at bedtime or when you're relaxing


• Helps to keep dogs' weight under control

Before You Start Your Dog's Exercise Program

Check with your dog's veterinarian before starting an exercise program. He or she can check your dog for any health issues that may be aggravated by exercise and suggest safe activities. Some size, breed and age considerations are:

• Breeds that are prone to bloat that is, deep-chested, narrow-bodied breeds, such as German shepherd dogs, Doberman pinschers and Great Danes should not be exercised right after meals.


• Small or short-legged dogs usually don't need as much walking as larger dogs.


• Breeds with short or flat noses (brachycephalic breeds) can have trouble breathing when exercised vigorously.


• Sustained jogging or running is not recommended for young dogs whose bones haven't finished growing. Because large dogs are more prone to cruciate ligament injuries, arthritis and hip dysplasia, sustained jogging can be hard on their joints and bones, too.


• Sighthounds, like greyhounds and whippets, are built for short-distance sprinting, not long-distance runs.

With today's more sedentary lifestyles, dog parents are often challenged to find enough outlets for their pets' considerable natural energy. Dogs are more athletic than us. But take heart-there are a variety of ways to exercise your dog, from activities that don't demand much energy on your part to activities that exercise both you and your dog. Dogs' need for exercise varies depending on their age, size, breed and individual traits. Most dogs benefit enormously from daily aerobic exercise (exercise that makes them pant, like fetch, tug, running and swimming), as well as at least one half-hour walk. Choose activities that suit your dog's individual personality and natural interests. Experiment with the ideas below to see what's most practical and enjoyable for her and for you.

Exercise That's Easy on You

Giving your dog enough exercise doesn't mean you have to be athletic yourself. If you'd rather not run around or take long, brisk walks, consider two approaches to exercising your dog:

1. Focus on brain, not brawn. Exercise your dog's brain with food puzzle toys, hunting for dinner, obedience and trick training, and chew toys instead of excessive physical exercise. Please see our articles, Enriching Your Dog's Life and How to Stuff a KONG^® Toy, to learn more about providing mental exercise for your dog. To learn more about training, please see our articles, Training Your Dog and Clicker Training Your Pet.


2. Focus on games that make your dog run around while you mostly stand or sit still. Games that fit the bill include fetch with balls, Frisbees or sticks, Find It, Hide-and-Seek, catching bubbles (using a special bubble-blower toy made for dogs, such as the Bubble Buddy™), chase (a toy on a rope or stick), and round-robin recalls for the whole family. (Please see our articles, Teaching Your Dog to Play Fetch and Enriching Your Dog's Life, to learn more about these games.) If your dog enjoys the company of other dogs, other easy options include taking her to the dog park, organizing play groups with friends or neighbors who have dogs or signing her up for dog daycare a few days a week. These options give your dog a chance to experience invigorating social play with other dogs.

Exercise for Extra Playful or Active Guardians

On-leash walks Did you know that dog owners walk an average of 300 minutes per week, whereas people without dogs walk only about 168 minutes? Apparently, our dogs motivate us to stay active! On-leash walks give dogs lots of interesting sights and smells to investigate. They may provide enough exercise for some toy breeds, senior dogs and other inveterate couch potatoes. Use an extendable leash, like the Flexi retractable leash or the WalkAbout^™, to give your dog more freedom to explore, and walk briskly for 30 minutes. To spice up your walks, vary your route once in a while to give your dog new smells and sights to enjoy. If your dog is old, not accustomed to exercise, overweight or has a health problems, start with a 10-minute walk each day and gradually increase the duration. For healthy young or middle-aged dogs, leashed walks alone probably won't provide enough exercise. Keep reading for more suggestions for adding vigorous activities to your dog's routine.

On-leash running, inline skating or bicycling These are great ways to exercise a healthy dog and keep yourself fit, too. Teaching your dog how to walk without pulling on her leash is the first essential step to creating a safe and enjoyable on-leash jogging, inline skating or bicycling companion. If your dog forges ahead, pulls to the side or lags behind you when you walk, imagine the problems that could result when you're moving faster! Constantly pulling on the leash can damage your dog's throat, and it's no fun for you either. (Please see our article, Teaching Your Dog Not to Pull on Leash, for more information.)

Here are some tips and things to consider when you and your dog try life in the fast lane:

• People are actually better suited for jogging or long-distance running than dogs are. Even when hunting or herding, dogs tend to move in short, intense bursts of speed with intermittent stops. Playing dogs do this as well, stopping to sniff around, eliminate and enjoy the scenery. If you jog with your dog on leash, be careful not to overestimate her abilities and go too far. If she seems stiff, sore and exhausted for hours afterward, scale back next time. Also, be careful to check your dog's paws after a run. Dogs get blisters on their pads, just like people get blisters on their feet. Dogs with white or light-colored footpads and some breeds, such as border collies, can be prone to this problem. If you usually run, cycle or inline skate on paved roads, avoid doing so on very hot days. Instead, you can find some soft surfaces that won't injure your dog's footpads, such as dirt and grass. Or if your dog's footpads seem especially sensitive, you can purchase special shoes made for dogs, like Muttluks^® dog boots (www.muttluks.com).


• If your dog normally gets to sniff around on your daily walks, she'll probably try to do the same when the two of you are running, skating or cycling. You'll have to teach her to pay attention to you during your outings. The best way to do this is by regularly rewarding her with small treats for not pulling. Pick the position you want her to run in and give her treats when she's in that spot. Before you set off, give your dog ample time to relieve herself and sniff around. And after you finish your outing, you can give her another chance to eliminate and sniff before bringing her inside.


• Again, sustained jogging or running is not recommended for young dogs whose bones haven't finished growing. It can also be hard on large dogs' joints and bones. If you have a young dog, check with her veterinarian to find out when it's safe for her to start running. If you have a large dog, ask her veterinarian if it's safe for her to run with you.


• Because teaching a dog not to pull on leash can be challenging, don't hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area. A professional trainer will offer group or private classes that can give you and your dog lots of help with leash walking. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CPDT near you.

Additional tips for on-leash inline skating and bicycling Being on wheels when attached to a galloping dog can be a bit dangerous. Squirrels, bouncing balls, the neighbor's cat and other things that might distract your dog aren't just slight diversions. They could have you suddenly traveling at light-speed and spilling onto your face-or worse, spinning into the path of a passing car. So, just like with running on-leash, the first step to rollerblading or bicycling with your dog is teaching her how to run beside you without pulling. Dogs often get more excited when running than they do when walking, so it will take extra training to teach your dog to stay in position at a run. If possible, first teach her this skill while running yourself, as described above, instead of skating or cycling. If you plan to cycle with your dog, it can be helpful to attach a Springer to your bike, a device that lets you attach your dog's leash to the bike. The Springer has a coil spring designed to absorb and reduce the force of your dog's sudden tugs if she lunges to the side, which will help you keep your balance and prevent your dog from pulling the bike over.

It's important that you monitor your dog's physical exertion while you're on a bike or inline skates. It's easy to over-exert your dog when you're on wheels while she's running. To avoid this, start with short distances at first and gradually increase them as your dog's endurance increases. If your dog starts to lag behind a lot, you may be pushing her too hard or she might not be enjoying your outings. Slow down or consider taking your dog with you only when you plan to skate or cycle for short distances.

Off-leash exercise Off-leash walking, running, hiking or bicycling in a large, safe fenced property or park or in a forest are ideal activities. Your dog can set her own pace, sniff and investigate to her heart's content, stop when she's tired and burst into running whenever she likes. Be sure to have your dog well-trained to reliably come when called before you give her off-leash privileges. Please see our article, Teaching Your Dog to Come When Called, for training information. Dogs should be allowed off leash only in safe areas where regulations permit. As you would during on-leash activities, be careful not to overestimate your dog's abilities. If she seems stiff, sore and exhausted for hours after exercising, you'll want to scale back next time

Swimming Some breeds are natural water dogs and require no training or acclimation to water, but even dogs who aren't bred for water activities can learn to enjoy a swim now and then. Here are some tips for fun and safe swimming with your dog:

• Introduce your dog to water as early as possible, preferably when she's still a puppy. If you do, she'll probably be more confident about swimming as an adult.


• Regardless of your dog's age, make sure her first experiences with water are pleasant ones. Look for a quiet place with shallow water. With your dog on a long leash (about 15 to 20 feet long), start your dog at the water's edge. Wade in with her and encourage her with play and praise.


• Never force your dog into the water, and don't let her get in deep water over her head until you're confident about her swimming abilities. Belly-deep is deep enough at first. As she becomes more comfortable, you can toss a ball a couple of feet to encourage her to venture in a little deeper.


• If you swim with your dog, be careful that the two of you don't get over your heads. Many dogs will try to climb on their guardian's head or shoulders when they tire.


• Bring fresh water for your dog to drink. Even freshwater streams and lakes can contain parasites and unhealthy bacteria.


• Don't let your dog swim into currents.


• Don't allow your dog to jump into deep water in a pool or lake. A dog can panic and possibly drown. Without an easily accessible ramp, she may not be able to get out of a swimming pool or climb back onto a dock.


• For boating or swimming in lakes, get your dog a well-fitted canine life vest. You can use a long nylon lead to prevent your dog from swimming too far away or running off when she gets out of the water. Keep a close watch to make sure your dog doesn't get tangled in the lead.


• Dog guardians who fish should take steps to make sure their dogs can't access fishing lines, lures, hooks or bait. Keep your dog away from feces, dead fish and shellfish washed up on the shore, which can contain toxins and parasites.


• Make sure your dog has access to shade. Too much sun can lead to heat exhaustion or heat stroke. If you have a hairless or light-colored dog, ask her veterinarian about using sun block on her exposed areas like her nose, ear tips and stomach.


• Rinse your dog's paws after visiting the beach to wash off irritating sand and salt water.


• Dry out your dog's ears after playing in the water to prevent ear infections. Please contact your veterinarian to determine which product is best for your dog.


• If your dog has a heavy or soft coat-as do, for example, retrievers, collies and shepherds-be sure to brush her thoroughly after she's dried following a swim. Soft coats can mat when wet and trap bacteria that can create local areas of infection called “hot spots.”


• If you have a swimming pool, keep it securely fenced off or covered with a sturdy pool cover when not in use. Never leave your dog unsupervised around an uncovered pool. Your pool should have graded steps, to give dogs and children a way out of the water. Dogs and toddlers cannot climb ladders. If your dog can't get out of the water, she will soon tire and drown. Also, don't assume that your dog will automatically know where the steps are and how to exit the pool. You need to show her and teach her several times.

Jumping Most dogs love to jump. You can make your own jumps from materials you have around the house, like cardboard boxes or a broomstick laid across two low pieces of furniture. At first, try using treats to lure your dog over jumps that are just a few inches high. As your dog catches on, you can gradually raise the jumps a little higher. However, keep jump heights at or below the level of your dog's elbows to avoid stressing her bones and joints. Also, avoid encouraging your dog to keep jumping if she hesitates or seems tired after a few minutes. She might be a little sore, especially if she's over six years of age, and continued exertion could cause injury.

Dog exercise balls Dog exercise balls, such as the Boomer Ball^® and the Best Ball, are made for soccer-style play. They come in different sizes and are made of hard plastic. Many dogs love to play with these, using their paws and nose to play soccer-with you, of course! You can also play soccer with your dog using KONG toys, which bounce in unpredictable directions because of their shape, or soccer balls made for dogs or humans.

Dog sports Sports like agility, flyball, obedience, rally obedience, musical freestyle and tracking can give you and your dog a whole new world of fun exercise and competition to explore. Activities for specific breed groups include herding, lure coursing, hunt tests and go-to-ground trials. For more information on these and other sports, please see our article Enriching Your Dog's Life

© 2009 ASPCA. All Rights Reserved.

Source: WebMD.com
http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs