Dog Grooming Stripping or Plucking

Should wirehaired breeds be plucked or clipped? Wirehaired Terri en-breeders who show their dogs express dismay at the mentions of clipping. A clipped terrier does not have a typical show appearance. But those who are not interested in showing their dogs will find that the dogs like clipping better than plucking. The clipped coat is smoother,the dog is not subjected to the annoyance of plucking, and the job cost sonly about half as much. A dog may be clipped every three or four months for a year and be in trim condition all the time at a cost no greater than that of two plucking's.

Summer clipping is advisable for long-haired dogs for hygienic rae-sons as well as for the dog's comfort. At one time it was generally thought that since dogs have few sweat glands in the skin it was unnecessary to clip them in hot weather. Some people even insisted that the long hair served as a protective insulation against heat. Our own experience with hundreds of long-haired dogs has convinced us that this reasoning is fallacious. Clipped dogs are definitely and obviously nudism comfortable in extreme heat. In addition, a clipped dog is more easily cared for. It requires less combing, keeps cleaner, and does not shed long hair throughout the house. It is also much less likely to get fleas or skin disease since many parasites prefer skin that is under heavy coats of long hair. If, in spite of clipping, your dog should get a skin disease, it is more readily curable and requires less medication than would be the case without clipping.
Most dogs are groomed by professionals who know how to do it correctly. Great skill in grooming is required to turn out a Poodle, for instance, in style. It generally pays to have the work done by those who know how. An amateur cuts off the hair all right, but sometimes the result resembles a moth-eaten garment. Professionals with efficient clip-per's do a much smoother job.

Dog Grooming

When you think of the condition of an animal's coat, you must consider both its hair and the skin under that hair.

You undoubtedly have noticed that when dogs are brought into the warmth of a house in cold weather they have a doggie odor than they do in warm weather. That is due largely to the greater secretion of sebum, a protective substance emitted by glands embedded in the ski nand deposited mostly against the shafts of the hair. To some extent it coats the skin, acting as a waterproofing agent helping it to shed rain and dampness, and it also serves as a protection against some types of bacteria. The sebum serves several useful purposes, but when it is allowed to accumulate on the dog's coat it may produce a strong odor that must be removed by bathing.

The animal's skin functions as an organ of the body, just as do the kidneys or liver. Its exposure subjects it to all kinds of abuse which better-protected organs never experience. In a healthy animal, glandular secretions of the skin keep the coat shiny. But a coat must be combed often. Dead hair must be removed and snarls untangled in all long-haired breeds. Only a comb or wire brush and elbow grease will accomplish this. Burrs most be removed by hand. Hard mats have to be cut with scissors. To do this, push the scissors under the wad, pointing them away Irons the body, and cut the wad in half. Large wads may be cut into massy sections which then comb or brush out with the least pairs to the pet. It is almost never necessary to do the easy thing - snip across the hair. With patience, all the dead hair can he separated Irons the wad, leaving a lovely coat.

Combing of long-haired dogs should he done as frequently as necessary to keep the coat in good condition. Animals should be taught floppy to stand or lie on a table or, in the case of a large dog, on the floor, and expect and abide combing.
Shorthaired animals need less attention. Some people take a hacksaw blade and drag it, like a comb, over the coat. The teeth catch the loose hairs and pull them out. The bare hand, moistened and rubbed over shorthaired dog's coat, will pull out many loose hairs and leave the coat looking glossier.

Soft-bristle brushes should not be the mainstay of grooming. Running brushes over the outside of a long-haired animal's coat accomplishes little in the way of loose hair removal. It does sweep out some of the finest skin scales, accumulated dust, and a few loose hairs. There are massy kinds of specialized brushes. Thousands of elaborate groom-in brushes, with wire bristles on one side and fiber bristles on the other, are available. You can get along very well with (1) a comb with very strong teeth, ten to fourteen to the inch, which can pull out snarl sand do rough work; (2) a fine comb with twenty teeth to the inch; (3) astron brush; and (4) a pair of scissors.

Top 10 Things That Can Poison Your Cat

Cat poison No. 1: Medications for people. Pets have a much greater sensitivity to many of the common over-the-counter and prescription medications that may be in your home.

Some of the medications that often poison cats include:

• Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medications, such as ibuprofen or naproxen. The most common cause of pet poisoning, these painkillers can cause ulcers in the stomach and intestines, and kidney damage.


• Acetaminophen is particularly toxic to cats, resulting in red blood cell damage. Just two extra-strength tablets may prove fatal to felines.


• Antidepressants, which may cause vomiting and, in more serious instances, serotonin syndrome - a dangerous condition that raises temperature, heart rate, and blood pressure, and may cause seizures.


• Methylphenidate. This attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) drug is a stimulant for pets, raising heart rate, blood pressure, and body temperature.

Cat poison No. 2: Flea and tick products. Poisoning can occur by ingestion of a topical product or overzealous application. In addition, certain flea control products manufactured for dogs can be lethal if used on cats.

Cat poison No. 3: People food. It is important to take care that your cat doesn’t ingest foods that might cause pet poisoning or stomach upset. Foods to keep away from your cat include:

• Chocolate. Experts don’t recommend giving chocolate, caffeine, or coffee to your cat.


• Onions, garlic, chives. These plant foods can irritate the stomach and damage red blood cells.

Cat poison No. 4: Rat and mouse poison. Rodenticides, if ingested, can cause severe symptoms and may be fatal.

Cat poison No. 5: Pet medications. Just as we can be sickened or killed by medications intended to help us, cases of pet poisoning by veterinary drugs are not uncommon. Some of the more commonly reported problem medications include painkillers and de-wormers.

Cat poison No. 6: Household plants. Cats are notorious for noshing on houseplants, and the habit isn’t just bad for your potted treasures. Many common, beautiful houseplants contain cat poisons that can cause serious harm, and even death. Some of the plants toxic to cats include:

• Lilies. Ingesting even small amounts of Easter lilies and related plants can cause severe kidney failure in cats.


• Azaleas and rhododendrons. These pretty flowering plants contain toxins that may result in vomiting, diarrhea, coma, and sometimes even death.


• Tulips and daffodils. The bulbs of these plants, if ingested, may cause serious stomach problems, convulsions, and damage to the heart.


• Sago palms. Eating just a few seeds may be enough to cause vomiting, seizures, and liver failure.

Cat poison No. 7: Chemical hazards. Not surprisingly, chemicals contained in antifreeze and paint thinner, and chemicals for pools can act as cat poisons. The symptoms they may produce include stomach upset, depression, and chemical burns.

Cat poison No. 8: Household cleaners. Just as cleaners like bleach can poison people, they are also a leading cause of pet poisoning, resulting in stomach and respiratory tract problems.

Cat poison No. 9: Heavy metals. Lead, which can be found in paint, linoleum, and batteries, can be poisonous if eaten by your cat. If ingested, lead can cause gastrointestinal and neurological problems.

Cat poison No. 10: Fertilizer. Products for your lawn and garden may be poisonous to animals that ingest them, perhaps by grooming themselves after walking or laying in a recently treated area.

What to do for suspected cat poisoning

If you think your cat has been poisoned, try to stay calm. It is important to act quickly, but rationally.

First, gather up any of the potential poison that remains - this may be helpful to your veterinarian and any outside experts who assist with the case. If your cat has vomited, collect the sample in case your veterinarian needs to see it.

Then, try to keep your pet calm and call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) at (888) 426-4435. Experts at the APCC are available to answer questions and provide guidance 24 hours a day for a $60 consultation fee.

Poison Protection: Pet-Proofing Your House

The best way to reduce the chances that your beloved cat will be the victim of pet poisoning is by preventing exposure to dangerous substances.

• Keep all medications, even those in child-proof bottles, in cabinets that are inaccessible to your cat. If you inadvertently drop a pill on the floor, be sure to look for it immediately. Supervise anyone, such as the elderly, who may need help taking medications.


• Always follow guidelines on flea or tick products, and never use products formulated for dogs on cats.


• Although you can give some “people foods” safely to your pets as a treat, others are toxic. If you have any questions about what is safe, ask your veterinarian. Or, err on the safe side and give treats made specifically for animals.


• Be sure any rodenticides you use are kept in metal cabinets or high on shelves where your pets can't find them. Remember that cats can be fatally poisoned by eating an exposed rodent, so always be very cautious about using these products. Tell your neighbors if you put out rat bait, so they can protect their pets from exposure, and ask them to do the same for you.


• When buying plants for your home, opt for those that won’t cause problems if your cat happens to nibble on them. The ASPCA has an online list of toxic and nontoxic plants by species. If you choose to have toxic plants, be sure they are kept in a place where your pets can't reach them.


• Store all chemicals and cleaners in pet-inaccessible areas of your home.

How to Choose Cat Litter

Your new cat is coming home from the animal shelter tomorrow. Busily you shop, checking off the items on your list, including cat food, toys, a scratching post and myriad other goodies.


And at the very top of the list are litterbox necessities. You head to the nearest pet supply superstore, and are faced with row after row of “all things litter.” Pastel-colored clumping litter, good old clay litter, some that’s made from pine and some that’s made from newspaper...What to choose, what to choose? Whether you are an experienced owner or a novice, the multitude of choices could prove daunting. But this was not always the case.

Pay Dirt

Prior to World War II, most cats lived indoor/outdoor lives and their toileting areas were neighborhood backyards and gardens. For indoor needs, some families kept boxes of sand or ashes from the furnace for their cat’s use in the cellar. Housewives of the 1940s were none too enamored with cats tracking ashes or sand through their homes. So an ex-sailor named Ed Lowe suggested that his neighbor try absorbent clay, which was a popular product for cleaning up industrial spills in wartime factories and happened to be made by his father’s firm. Kitty Litter was born.

Granulated clay litter offered improved odor control over ashes or sand by siphoning urine to the bottom of the pan and controlling ammonia smells until the litter reached a saturation point-usually within a week in a box used by a single cat. Today, most folks either scoop solids daily and completely replace the litter once a week, or use less litter in the box and dump and clean daily. The granules of traditional litter are fairly large and do not tend to cling to a cat’s paws, so there is little tracking of litter outside the box.

To Clump or Not to Clump

Granulated clay litters remained unchallenged for nearly 40 years, with little change or refinement until Thomas Nelson, Ph.D., needed a way to supplement his income while in graduate school. The biochemist began to raise Persian cats, and ended up developing clumping litter. Quoted in an October 1996 article in Cat Fancy magazine, Dr. Nelson explains, “I hunted around and found clays that were dried but not baked. They were very absorbent and would form a clump when the cat urinated on them. The clump could then be removed, thereby getting rid of the urine. I had a box of litter I did not change in 10 years-I just added more-and it had absolutely no odor at all.”

The removal of almost all urine and feces does produce a better-smelling box area for weeks at a time without completely throwing out the old litter and starting from scratch.  But we should point out that if more than one cat uses the box, there is usually a fairly pronounced odor in 4 to 6 weeks, even with scooping and litter replacement. It is necessary to replace the approximate amount scooped out with fresh clumping litter, for if it is allowed to go below a certain volume, urine will tend to pool and cake in corners and odors will arise.

To Clump or Not to Clump

The variety of clumping litters offers several options beyond the traditional scented and non-scented choices found with most granulated litters. Most cats prefer non-scented litter, an especially important point for owners who plan to use covered litter boxes. There are multi-cat formulas that form more cement-like clumps that will keep their form even when tread on by extra cat traffic; these are definitely not flushable! There are also less-tracking formulas, which offer slightly larger granules that are more likely to fall off of the cat’s paws before he leaves the box. And there are clumping litters developed especially for flushability, a quality most clumping litters don’t have due to their expansive properties. Each year the list of varieties grows.

A few years after clumping litter first came out, an article in the now-defunct holistic cat magazine Tiger Tribe questioned the safety of clumping litter if ingested, especially for neonate kittens who often eat litter when it is introduced to them during the weaning stage. While there has been no proof to claims of problems in scientific literature, caretakers may wish to delay introducing kittens to clumping litter until 3 to 4 months of age. Any cat older than that detected eating litter should be taken to a veterinarian, since this behavior often indicates anemia or other dietary deficiencies.

Scoopable cat litter continues to be a hot topic on the Internet, with some claiming that it is toxic and causes respiratory illness in cats. Many scoopable cat litters contain bentonite clay, a naturally occurring clay mineral that is considered to be biologically inert when ingested, and/or silica. Silica is also a physically and chemically inert substance, and is a major component found in ordinary sand. Silica is also used as a moisture-absorbing agent in the little packets found in shoe boxes, medications and some foods.  According to our experts at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, pets ingesting small amounts of silica gel may develop only mild gastrointestinal upset, if any signs develop at all.

Cats may ingest small amounts of litter when grooming themselves after using the litter box, and these amounts pass through the digestive tract easily without problems. However, if an animal consumes a very large amount of litter (as can happen when a dog "cleans out" the litter box), gastrointestinal upset, constipation or, in rare cases, intestinal obstruction could potentially occur.

Alt.Litter

The field of cat litter doesn’t end at granulated vs. clumping clay. The shelves at local pet supply emporia also hold an array of litters made from eco-friendly materials, including recycled newspaper, corn cobs, peanut shell meal, processed orange peel, wheat, pine sawdust and shavings, and hardwood and cedar chips. All promise to be superior odor controllers, long lasting and earth-friendly. What to choose, what to choose...?

Alt.Litter continued...

In 1990, Dr. Peter Borchelt, an applied animal behaviorist, ran three 10-day tests to determine feline litter preference using a comparison of 14 types of commercial litter as well as topsoil mixed with clay litter and playbox sand. Each cat had 6 boxes to choose from; midway through the testing, the boxes were moved to prevent placement preference from overriding litter type preference. In test after test, fine-grained clumping litter was used more than twice as often as its nearest competitor, with boxes of wood chips, grain litter and recycled paper litter going completely unused. Borchelt concludes, “These data support the clinical observation that an important factor in cats’ preference for litter material is its texture, granularity or coarseness. Everclean, a finely textured clay, was preferred to clay with larger particle sizes. But playbox sand, which is also finely textured, was not preferred much more than coarse clay, perhaps because of the weight of the particles.”

What to choose? You control the purse strings, but the ultimate choice is up to your feline friend. For if he does not like the smell and feel of the litter, he will take his business elsewhere.

This article was written by Jacque Lynn Schultz, C.P.D.T., Companion Animal Programs Adviser, ASPCA National Shelter Outreach. It originally appeared in the Spring 1997 issue ofASPCA Animal Watch, and was updated in November 2006.

Did You Know?

Many scoopable cat litters are processed in such a way to remove as much of the fine dust as possible. If you find that you or your cat is particularly sensitive to airborne dust particles, you may wish to consider using an alternate form of litter.

Lapsed Users

One in every 10 cats will have a litterbox lapse in his or her lifetime. The 20 most common reasons are:

1. The cat is suffering from a medical problem involving the urinary tract.

2. The cat experiences a bout of geriatric constipation.

3. The caretaker does not keep the box as clean as the cat wants it to be.

4. The owner changes the brand or type of litter.

5. The owner changes the location of the litterbox.

6. The owner switches to deodorized or perfumed litter.

7. The owner buys a new box and throws out the old one.

8. The owner cleans the litterbox with too harsh a cleaning product.

9. The location of the litterbox is too busy or not private enough for the cat.

10. The home is too large for just one litterbox.

11. The cat inadvertently gets locked out of reach of the litterbox.

12. The cat is kept from using the litterbox by another animal in the house.

13. There are too many cats and not enough litterboxes.

14. There are too many cats and not enough territory.

15. Stray cats can be seen/smelled near the cat’s territory.

16. The unneutered male cat has come of age and is marking his territory.

17. The unspayed female is in heat and advertising for suitors.

18. Over time, the cat has developed an aversion to the texture of the litter.

19. The cat was never properly trained to use the litterbox in the first place.

20. The cat is stressed by a change in routine or environment, including a new baby, new furniture, work schedule changes, vacations, overnight guests or a move.

Dog Shedding and Grooming

Dog hair grows in cycles. Each follicle has a period of rapid growth (the anagen phase), followed by slower growth and then a resting phase (the catagen phase). During the resting phase, mature hair remains in the follicles and eventually detaches at the base. When the dog sheds her coat (the telogen phase), a young hair pushes out the old hair and the cycle begins anew. The average dog takes about four months to grow a coat, but there are individual and breed variations. The Afghan Hound, for example, grows her coat in about 18 months.

Many people assume that temperature changes govern when a dog sheds her coat. In fact, the seasonal length of daylight exerts the major influence. Longer periods of daylight in spring activate a shedding process that lasts four to six weeks. In fall, as the daylight hours grow shorter, many dogs may again shed their coat. Sensitivity to ambient light is most pronounced in dogs who live outdoors. Dogs who live primarily indoors are exposed to artificial light and a rather fixed photoperiod. These dogs may shed and grow new coats all year long.

Some breeds, such as Poodles, Bedlington Terriers, and Kerry Blue Terriers, have what is called a nonshedding curly coat. These breeds do not shed loose hair into your house. Instead, their loose hair tends to collect into mats that remain on the body. Dogs with corded coats, such as the Puli and Komondor, have similar coats, but their hair works itself into cords.

Some dogs have a double coat comprised of long, coarse outer guard hairs and a soft, fine, wooly undercoat. When a dog with a double coat begins to shed, the appearance of the coat can be quite alarming. The undercoat is shed in a mosaic or patchy fashion, giving the dog a moth-eaten appearance that may suggest a skin disease.

When shedding begins, remove as much of the irritating dead hair as possible by daily brushing. In breeds with a thick double coat, a bath will loosen the dead hair and make it easier to remove. Always brush out a dog before bathing to help prevent the formation of mats.

Grooming

Grooming at regular intervals will keep your dog’s coat and skin in good condition and prevent many problems. Even hairless breeds require some grooming for healthy skin. Establish a grooming schedule during puppyhood and stick to it throughout the dog’s life. Initially, keep the sessions brief and make grooming a pleasurable experience. If the puppy grows to dislike the basic grooming routine, a simple procedure will become most difficult.

It is important that the bristles on the brush and the teeth on the comb be the right length for the dog’s coat. For example, if the coat is thick and the bristles and teeth are too short, the top coat may look smooth for a time but the undercoat will mat. Eventually the top coat becomes involved and the dog may have to be shaved. On the other hand, if the dog has a thin undercoat, grooming with tools that have long bristles and teeth can scratch and injure the skin.

Removing Mats

Mats are solid clumps of fur that can form anywhere on the body but are usually found behind the ears, in the folds of the armpits, around the anus, on the backs of the thighs, in the groin area, and between the toes. Mats are evidence of neglected grooming or grooming with the wrong tools. Dogs with softer hair are more prone to develop mats.

To remove mats, first saturate the clumps of hair with coat conditioner for several minutes. This rehydrates the hair and closes the barbs. Then separate as much of the mat as you can with your fingers.

Some mats can be removed with the tip of a comb. However, most require the use of scissors, an electric clipper, or a mat splitter. Cutting into mats with scissors must be done with extreme care, because a dog’s skin is not attached to the underlying muscle and tents up as the mat is pulled. Do not slide the scissors beneath the mat and attempt to remove it flush with the skin. You will almost certainly remove a piece of skin. When possible, slide a comb beneath the mat as a barrier between the scissors and the skin. Then hold the scissors perpendicular to the comb and carefully snip into the fur ball in narrow strips. Similar care must be taken with electric clippers. Tease the mat out gently. After the mat has been removed, comb out residual snarls.

This technique also works for removing burdocks and tangled plant material. Nonstick cooking sprays may help to ease the plant material out of the hair without cutting any coat.

To remove gum, put an ice cube on the gum first, then try to slide it off. If that doesn’t work, you will need to carefully cut it out.

Make Bathing Your Dog Enjoyable

Ever watched your dog roll on the ground, lick her coat or chew at a mat on her fur? These are her ways of keeping clean.

Sometimes, though, she’ll need a little extra help from her friend to look her best.

Make Grooming as Enjoyable as Possible—For the Both of You!

Grooming sessions should always be fun, so be sure to schedule them when your dog’s relaxed, especially if she’s the excitable type. Until your pet is used to being groomed, keep the sessions short—just 5 to 10 minutes. Gradually lengthen the time until it becomes routine for your dog. You can help her get comfortable with being touched and handled by making a habit of petting every single part of your dog, including such potentially sensitive areas as the ears, tail, belly, back and feet.

And here’s one of our most important tips of all—pile on the praise and offer your pooch a treat when the session is finished!

Brushing

Regular grooming with a brush or comb will help keep your pet’s hair in good condition by removing dirt, spreading natural oils throughout her coat, preventing tangles and keeping her skin clean and irritant-free. And grooming time’s a great time to check for fleas and flea dirt--those little black specks that indicate your pet is playing host to a flea family.

If your dog has a smooth, short coat (like that of a chihuahua, boxer or basset hound), you only need to brush once a week:

• First, use a rubber brush to loosen dead skin and dirt.


• Next, use a bristle brush to remove dead hair.


• Now, polish your low-maintenance pooch with a chamois cloth and she’s ready to shine!

If your dog has short, dense fur that’s prone to matting, like that of a retriever, here’s your weekly routine:

• Use a slicker brush to remove tangles.


• Next, catch dead hair with a bristle brush.


• Don’t forget to comb her tail.

If your dog has a long, luxurious coat, such as that of a Yorkshire terrier, she’ll need daily attention:

• Every day you’ll need to remove tangles with a slicker brush.


• Gently tease mats out with a slicker brush.


• Next, brush her coat with a bristle brush.


• If you have a long-haired dog with a coat like a collie’s or an Afghan hound’s, follow the steps above, and also be sure to comb through the fur and trim the hair around the hocks and feet.

Bathing

The ASPCA recommends bathing your dog every 3 months or so; your pet may require more frequent baths in the summertime if she spends lots of time with your outdoors. Always use a mild shampoo that’s safe to use on dogs, and follow these easy steps:

• First, give your pet a good brushing to remove all dead hair and mats.


• Place a rubber bath mat in the bathtub to provide secure footing, and fill the tub with about 3 to 4 inches of lukewarm water.


• Use a spray hose to thoroughly wet your pet, taking care not to spray directly in her ears, eyes or nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, a large plastic pitcher or unbreakable cup will do.


• Gently massage in shampoo, working from head to tail.


• Thoroughly rinse with a spray hose or pitcher; again, avoid the ears, eyes and nose.


• Check the ears for any foul odors or excessive debris; if you choose to use a cleansing solution on a cotton ball, take care not to insert it into the ear canal.


• Dry your pet with a large towel or blow dryer, but carefully monitor the level of heat.

Please note: Some animals seem to think that bathtime is a perfect time to act goofy. Young puppies especially will wiggle and bounce all over the place while you try to brush them, and tend to nip at bathtime. If this sounds like your pet, put a toy that floats in the tub with her so she can focus on the toy rather than on mouthing you.

Nail Clipping

Most people really don’t handle their dog’s feet until they are about to clip the nails and then…watch out! Some animals can get very upset at this totally foreign feeling. That’s why it’s a good idea to get your dog used to having her feet touched before you attempt a nail trim. Rub your hand up and down her leg and then gently press each individual toe—and be sure to give her lots of praise and some food treats as you do this. Every animal is different, but chances are that within a week or two of daily foot massage, your dog will be better able to tolerate a trim. Here’s how to do it:

• Begin by spreading each of your dog’s feet to inspect for dirt and debris.


• Use sharp, guillotine-type nail clippers to cut off the tip of each nail at a slight angle, just before the point where it begins to curve.


• Take care to avoid the quick, a vein that runs into the nail. This pink area can be seen through the nail. If your dog has black nails, however, the quick will not be as easily discernible, so be extra careful.


• If you do accidentally cut into the quick, it may bleed, in which case you can apply some styptic powder to stop the bleeding.Once the nails have been cut, use an emery board to smooth any rough edges.

Special Breeds, Special Needs

Dogs with loose facial skin or wrinkles—such as shar peis and pugs—will need special attention. To prevent dirt and bacteria from causing irritation and infection, clean the folds with damp cotton. Always thoroughly dry the areas between the folds.

If your dog has long or droopy ears, you should check them weekly. Remove wax and dirt from your pet’s ears with a cotton ball moistened with water or a little mineral oil. You may need to remove any excess hair leading into the ear canal; ask your pet’s vet or groomer to show you how before trying it at home. There are special hair removers that allow you to carefully pull one strand at a time.