Dog Tail

Dislocations occur in the tails and the toes of dogs of all breeds. Puppies born with tails that bend backward actually have dislocated vertebrae (an uncorrectable condition). Bending the tail to straighten it usually results in breaking it or damaging it so severely that the end below the break dies and must be removed.

Toes that are broken at the joints usually are easily repaired by applying casts to the feet after reduction or setting. But when a ligament of the toes is cut or broken, it seldom regenerates and the nail bends upward. This is a familiar sight to veterinarians, who see so many steel-trap wounds.

The dog’s tail speaks a lot regarding the mood and over all personality of the dog. Dog owners or dog specialists do not take much time to interpret the mood of a dog by recognizing the physical appearance including the tail. The following are some information on the various signs indicated by the different movement of tails.

Dog Nail Care

The nails are appendages of the skin. Each nail has a hard outer crust protecting it, and inside there is a blood and nerve supply. Nails, be in organs of defense and aids in locomotion, as well as being useful in holding food while the teeth tear it apart, are strongly attached to the toes - much more so than our nails.

Dogs' nails are constantly growing to make up for the loss of nail which, in a wild dog, would be worn off by contact wills rough surfaces. House pets seldom have the opportunity of wearing down the nails sufficiently. Dogs running the streets keep their nails filed off by the pavements, but dogs walking on carpets or sleeping most of the time having no such opportunity and often their nails curve back under the foot until they press into the toes. Various dogs differ markedly in their rate of nail growth. In some the rate of growth is so rapid that even running on city streets fails to wear their nails off.

Dog Grooming

When you think of the condition of an animal's coat, you must consider both its hair and the skin under that hair.

You undoubtedly have noticed that when dogs are brought into the warmth of a house in cold weather they have a doggie odor than they do in warm weather. That is due largely to the greater secretion of sebum, a protective substance emitted by glands embedded in the ski nand deposited mostly against the shafts of the hair. To some extent it coats the skin, acting as a waterproofing agent helping it to shed rain and dampness, and it also serves as a protection against some types of bacteria. The sebum serves several useful purposes, but when it is allowed to accumulate on the dog's coat it may produce a strong odor that must be removed by bathing.

The animal's skin functions as an organ of the body, just as do the kidneys or liver. Its exposure subjects it to all kinds of abuse which better-protected organs never experience. In a healthy animal, glandular secretions of the skin keep the coat shiny. But a coat must be combed often. Dead hair must be removed and snarls untangled in all long-haired breeds. Only a comb or wire brush and elbow grease will accomplish this. Burrs most be removed by hand. Hard mats have to be cut with scissors. To do this, push the scissors under the wad, pointing them away Irons the body, and cut the wad in half. Large wads may be cut into massy sections which then comb or brush out with the least pairs to the pet. It is almost never necessary to do the easy thing - snip across the hair. With patience, all the dead hair can he separated Irons the wad, leaving a lovely coat.

Combing of long-haired dogs should he done as frequently as necessary to keep the coat in good condition. Animals should be taught floppy to stand or lie on a table or, in the case of a large dog, on the floor, and expect and abide combing.
Shorthaired animals need less attention. Some people take a hacksaw blade and drag it, like a comb, over the coat. The teeth catch the loose hairs and pull them out. The bare hand, moistened and rubbed over shorthaired dog's coat, will pull out many loose hairs and leave the coat looking glossier.

Soft-bristle brushes should not be the mainstay of grooming. Running brushes over the outside of a long-haired animal's coat accomplishes little in the way of loose hair removal. It does sweep out some of the finest skin scales, accumulated dust, and a few loose hairs. There are massy kinds of specialized brushes. Thousands of elaborate groom-in brushes, with wire bristles on one side and fiber bristles on the other, are available. You can get along very well with (1) a comb with very strong teeth, ten to fourteen to the inch, which can pull out snarl sand do rough work; (2) a fine comb with twenty teeth to the inch; (3) astron brush; and (4) a pair of scissors.

Dog Eyes

Our dog's eyes require very little attention. The only hygiene necessary is the removal of surplus hair that may curl inward and irritate the eyes, and the removal of exudates from the inner corners where the tears of the eyes overflow in many breeds. Spaniels and Toy Poodles arc two breeds that often exhibit soiled spots below the inner corners of the eyelids which may discolor the hair. Pekingese dogs with large wrinkles of skin close to the eyes need to have the hair on these ridges kept short to prevent it from touching the eyeballs. Such hair may be kept matted down with Vaseline.

Most people believe that dogs such as Poodles, Old English Sheep-dogs, Kerry Blue Terriers, and many mongrels will become blind if the hair is clipped from in front of their eyes. This is not true. The hair may be harmful. These dogs sometimes have mats and caked areas where the eyes' secretions have built up a mass of material under which the skin is generally irritated. Only very fastidious owners who groom their dogs frequently should let hair grow long over the eyes. Even then the eyeballs may easily be injured.

Every hunter knows how dogs' eyes look the day after a hunt .Hounds hunt with heads to the ground, plowing through reeds, brush and tall grass. Seeds, dust, and vegetable fibers that fill their eyes are sometimes too coarse to wash out with tears and wind up caking around the eyes. In such cases, the eyes should be washed with warm water and dried with a soft cloth. Tears are a better antiseptic than boric acid. For comfort, administer a mild antiseptic like a nonprescription human eye irrigating fluid or ask your veterinarian for a prescription. It is wise to keep a supply of these drugs on hand for all dogs that have a tendency to sore eyes.

Distemper Dog

The name "distemper" is a misnomer but evolved in days gone by from many maladies that were called "a distemper."Benjamin Franklin writes in his autobiography that he had "a distemper" for many months.

There is no doubt that this one disease was responsible for dog population control in days prior to preventive inoculations.

So feared by dog owners and once the scourge of dogs, distemper is now rapidly dwindling in incidence. Although still a menace in some areas, in others it has been practically eliminated and is approaching the status of human poliomyelitis in its infrequency. The control of distemper is ass eloquent demonstration of the excellent results of cooperation between researchers, veterinarians, and dog owners.

Distemper is a disease of the epithelial tissue, which covers the body inside and out. All of the mucous membranes, such as the lining of the nose, the mouth, the tissue around the eyes, the intestinal lining, the internal genital organs, and the bladder lining, are attacked, as are the glands and those cells that secrete substances.

Although the incubation period is five to seven days, some dogs appear to develop signs of distemper many weeks after known exposure. Puppies taken from shelters that cannot afford to give inoculations may be normal until five days from exposure, at which time they have a sudden elevation of temperature to perhaps 504° F. At this time vomiting and listlessness are evident, as well as photophobia,or a fear of light, in many cases. In a few days the temperature returns to normal and the dog acts better, but for only a day or two, and then the temperature rises again to 504° F or higher. It is thought by many that the initial viral attack weakens the dog no that opportunist bacteria, which are always present, can flourish in the damaged tissue. In any event, a dry cough, purulent eye and nose discharges, diarrhea, and vomiting may all be present.

Feeding Dog

Most people get their first dog as a puppy. It should be properly weaned by the time you take it home, and the simplest way of feeding a new puppy is to give it four feeds a day, the first and the last consisting of baby cereal mashed up in warm milk. The other two feeds, at lunchtime and teatime, ought to be a mixture of canned puppy food mixed with rusk. If for some reason you cannot get canned puppy food, you can use canned dog food provided you sprinkle bone meal onto it. Do not, feed the little dogs on meat alone as it is low in calcium.At about twelve weeks you should find that the puppy no longer requires four meals and at this time one of the cereal and milk meals can be dropped. At six months you can omit the other, and three months after that you must decide whether you would prefer your dog to have one meal a day, or two.



Do not get into the habit of letting the dog eat between official mealtimes or of feeding it tidbits, such as sweets or biscuits. Nor should you feed scraps of food from the table when you are eating and never, ever let it lick up leftovers from the plates. There is nothing wrong with feeding any lean bits of left-over meat to the dog in his dish at his next meal. If the puppy has left his meal,remove it after half an hour. Keep to a regular feeding routine and always leave the food dish in the same place. It does not matter what sort of dish you use except that if your dog has long, dangly ears the dish should be a narrow one so that his face can fit into it while his ears hang outside, because if he gets food all over them dermatitis can result. You have several choices when you come to feeding an adult dog but simply feeding it on meat is just not an adequate diet.

Dog Bone

Puppies are stepped on, dropped from people's arms, fall down stairs,and are otherwise stressed, usually with no skeletal damage done, butbones can fracture and joints can be sprained. Injury is the number onecause of hone problems. Fortunately, growing puppies' bones heal rapidly and since their bones are not brittle as those of adult dogs they maybend and straighten rather than snap. The greenstick fracture often heals without human intervention.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="350" caption="Dog bone with cuts made during skinning."][/caption]

There is no doubt in our minds that the majority of bone problems in growing puppies other than those due to injury are caused by their owners feeding them improperly. This of course is because of an innocence or lack of knowledge, even indulgence, on the owners' part. Theyare not aware of the proper nutrition puppies require or whether or notthe commercially available foods have the necessary ingredients foradequate nutrition.

Dog Boarding Kennel

Dog owners sooner or later face the question, "What shall I do with my pet when I have to leave it?" There arc a number of other questions closely related to this one. "If the dog becomes sick, shall I keep it at home or leave it in a veterinary hospital? Should I exhibit my dog in as how? Should I take my dog to a training class? Is it safe to allow my pet free access to neighborhood dog?"



Actually all of these general questions are part of a still larger one,"To what extent should I isolate my dog?"

In order to answer these questions intelligently, there are certain basic facts you should know. Every proprietor of a veterinary hospital oral boarding kennel, every dog warden and humane society officer, knows these facts. If every pet owner knew them as well, sickness among pets might he greatly reduced.

Let's assume that every dog owner and every dog handler is honest,and that every person owning an dog he or she knows is sick will isolate it. Let's assume, too, that no dog warden knowingly puts a sick dog in the pound. And last, but not least, let's assume that no veterinary hospital exists without isolation wards where dogs with each kind of disease are separately segregated. It is obvious that none of these assumptions can be completely true. Pet owners are no more and no less ethical than other groups of people. Certainly not all of the mare sufficiently concerned about the health of other people's pets to isolate their own when they know it to be sick.

Dog Body

The body of every dog grows from a single cell. What is a cell? It is a unit of life smaller than the eye can see. The whole body of some tiny dog is a single cell: the amoeba and paramecium, for example.ther dog consist of colonies of cells. All the visible animate creatures we see are immense colonies of cells, and each cell has some special function. Every one of these cells is composed of a covering,within which is some protoplasm, a substance not unlike egg white, panda nucleus, which carries the genetic material.



The first cell, which results from the uniting of a male cell (sperm)and a female cell (ovum) and is thus the beginning of an dog, is complete in every detail. It is a favorite academic paradox to say that a cell multiplies by dividing, and it is, of course, quite true. If one cell divides into two cells, it has divided, but because it is two, it has multiplied. The two become four; the four, eight. As they go on dividing and thus increasing, different cells become specialized at certain stages. Some may become skin, some liver, some heart, some guerillas, some tonsils, and so forth. There are cells that may never renew themselves: brain cells, for example. Then there are other very special-i zed cells, like those in the hair and nails, that are constantly renewed.They all live together in a happy community or colony, doing their work unless hindered by improper nourishment or crowding (footraces), or disease. And that's what our dogs are big colonies of cells.

Dog Birth

As the puppies start to pass through the birth canal, there is an even greater effort of expulsion, which is probably due to a reflex occasioned by pressure on the upper part of the vulva. This is true labor and is a useful fact to know in helping a bitch to whelp. If you want to make her strain, insert a clean-gloved finger in the vulva and pull upward and backward. She wig nearly always strain and assist you. The average whelping time for dogs is five hours. Small dogs, such as Cocker Spaniels, usually finish whelping in three hours, but large dogs, such as Great Danes and St. Bernard’s, often take seven or eight hours. Twelve hours is the limit of normal time for a large dog, although bitches have been known to take thirty-six hours with no particularly abnormal aspects to the whelping.



The contractions of the uterus push the young dog out through the vagina. The puppy appears in one of several ways. It may still be in the amniotic sac. If so, the sac must be broken or the newborn will suffocate. If the mother does not do this, you should do it for her. The puppy may still be in its sac, but the sac may have ruptured. Or the young may be born with the sac remaining inside the mother. In this case, the umbilical cord is still connecting it to the sac. The mother may chew this cord to break it, and the sac and placenta will he discharged later. But you can wrap a cloth or tissue about the cord and pull gently until the sac comes out with the placenta. If a placenta is not discharged, it may or may not become a problem.

Dog Bronchitis

Dog bronchitis, is the inflammation of the bronchial tubes. The general symptom is coughing. This may be dry cough, a phlegm cough, or a mild, annoying cough such as humans often have during the resolution stage of Cory, or cold. In some cases the coughing may be no paroxysmal that it causes vomiting, and it is not unusual for a constant irritating cough to cause bleeding from the lining of the windpipe.

When inflammation is intense, shortness of breath is another symptom; the air spaces may become so constricted that the normal flow of air is retarded. Moreover, a considerable amount of mucus is discharged and this further interferes with normal breathing. Coughing is partly an attempt to rid the system of this phlegm.

The inflammation is symptomatic of disease, since bronchitis are seldom disease entities in themselves. Treatment of the cough in such cases usually involves elimination of the underlying is-ease of which this inflammation is a part. Consequently, the first step must be an exact determination of the cause of the inflammation, as this will in turn determine the most effective treatment. There are several viruses that inflame these tissues; certain biologics may be helpful in combating bacteria which enter the tissue weakened by a virus infection.

If the inflammation is due to inhaling irritating smoke, gas, or dust, it may be advisable to prevent coughing to allow healing. Often there is the problem of deciding whether the cough produces the irritation or vice versa. If the cough is productive, that is, if it raises phlegm, it would seem inadvisable to administer drugs that help stop the cough-in. But if a nagging cough merely irritates the membranes without serving a useful purpose, a drug like codeine may be used for relief. Dog's coughing sometimes troubles the owner more than the dog, an din these cases stopping the cough is almost essential. A mixture of drugs, sold in every drugstore, is frequently prescribed by veterinarians.Some coughs are cured by the simple expedient of using sedatives to give the involved tissues as much rest as possible.

How to Care Pregnant Dog

Are you getting ready for the pitter-patter of little paws? As with humans, one can minimize complications with proper care in pregnancy. Having puppies may sound easy and it may seem like the dog does all the work, but that is not always how it turns out.

So our first assumption is that the litter is wanted (if not necessarily planned.) If the litter is not wanted, please consider that there is a terrible canine over-population problem with some shelters in our own area euthanizing over 100 dogs DAILY. If your litter is not wanted, please consider spaying the pregnant female or having a medical abortion.

Now on to caring for the pregnant dog:

The female dog is pregnant for an average of 63 days.

Plan accordingly.

Diet

The expectant mother will gradually require increasing amounts of food to nourish her developing litter. A food approved for growth (i.e., a puppy food) will certainly be necessary during the nursing period and pregnancy may be a good time to transition into this new diet.

About 3 weeks into the pregnancy, she may experience a little nausea and appetite loss similar to morning sickness. This should resolve within a week, so if an upset stomach or loss of appetite lasts longer than that or is accompanied by listlessness, something more serious is going on and the vet should be notified.

Calcium supplementation may be tempting but is not a good idea. As long as the expectant mother is on a quality diet, supplementation is unnecessary. Further, supplementation can suppress her natural calcium releasing hormones so that when she really needs extra calcium during nursing, she will not have the proper hormone balance to get it. This can create a very dangerous situation that could easily be avoided by not supplementing with calcium.

At around 30 days of pregnancy, bring the female dog to the vet for a wellness check up and to confirm the pregnancy with a simple blood test.

Exercise

Regular walking helps the expectant mother keep up her strength but intensive training, showing, or even obedience school is probably too stressful. Obesity is a dangerous problem for pregnant dogs and serious blood sugar regulation problems can put the litter at risk. Still, pregnancy is not the time for a weight loss program. Your veterinarian will help guide you regarding the optimal nutrition plan for your individual dog.

During the final 3 weeks of pregnancy, the mother dog should be completely isolated from other dogs at home (see below). This means no walks in public during this stage of pregnancy.








Vaccination

A female dog should not be vaccinated during pregnancy; there are sera in the vaccine that could be harmful to the developing fetus. Ideally, the female should be vaccinated just prior to breeding. She will be passing on her immunity to her pups in the first milk she produces (special milk called colostrum) so we want her antibody levels to be at their peak yet we want to avoid vaccination during pregnancy.

Parasite Control

If the expectant mother uses a heartworm preventive product normally, she may continue to do so during pregnancy. All heartworm products available are approved for use in pregnancy and lactation.

Flea control is important during pregnancy though is more important after the puppies are born. It is important to use a safe product during pregnancy. There are two specifically approved products for this use:

Roundworms and hookworms can both be transmitted from the pregnant mother dog to her unborn puppies. This is a nuisance as one usually ends up with both an infected mother and infected puppies, but fortunately there is a deworming protocol to control this infection. If you have concerns about internal parasites for the puppies, speak to your veterinarian about worm control. Daily medication will be needed but it is possible for worm-free puppies to be born.

Isolate the Mother to Prevent Herpes Infection

Canine Herpesvirus infection causes a minor cold in adult dogs but can cause abortion in pregnancy as well as death in newborn puppies. The best way to prevent infection is to isolate the mother dog completely during the 3 weeks prior to delivery and the 3 weeks after delivery. This means absolutely no contact with other dogs.

Just prior to isolation, it is a good idea for the expectant mother to have a radiograph of her belly to count puppies.

Knowing how many puppies to expect will tell you when she is finished delivering.

Labor and Complications of Delivery

There is always the possibility of a problem with delivery and you will need to be able to recognize labor when it is occurring, what is normal and what is a sign you need to see the veterinarian for assistance. See birthing puppies for information on care during labor and nursing.

Dog Bathing

Dogs and cats are the only pets ordinarily bathed, and they are bathed simply to remove dirt and odors. There is no best way to bath ea pet, and no way has yet been found to eliminate the need for elbow grease. For bathing a pet the human fingers are far more efficient than any mechanical device yet developed.

Because the coats of dogs are water-resistant, the help of a chemicals needed to wash a dog with ease. A liquid detergent used to hand wash dishes is our first choice and liquid soap with either a zoo percent (or a diluted 40 percent) coconut-oil base is excellent. To dilute 40percent soap, simply add an equal amount of water. Cake soap can bemused instead of liquid, but it requires considerably more work. By whatever method the soap or detergent and water are applied, the solution must be well worked into the coat and rubbed until the dirt has been loosened or dissolved. After the lathering, the suds must be thoroughly rinsed from the coat. This is best accomplished by work-in the fingers through the hair, just as one does in applying the soap solution. Usually one soaping and rinsing is enough, but if necessary, the process may be repeated.

There are soaps that contain vermin poisons. If one is used, no further medication is required. However, there are several very efficient dips and rinses available that are well worth using to finish off your pet's bath. Prepare the solution just before the bathing starts. After the pet has been washed and rinsed, pour the dip or special rinse all over the coat, allow it to saturate the coat for a few minutes, squeeze out the surplus with your hands, and dry the pet.

A loosening of hair generally follows any bath. After the pet is dry, considerable combing is generally necessary to free the coat of the loosened hair and give it a sheen and tone.

Bathing small dogs or puppies may be easily accomplished by using abasing and towels. The whole animal may be dipped in the basin, leaving only the head out. The soiled water can be allowed to run out and fresh water quickly drawn while the pet sits on a towel, waiting for the next immersion.

One of the questions about bathing most frequently asked is whether it is safe in winter. It is safe in winter provided the pet is well dried before being allowed outside in the cold air. For that reason many pet owners bathe their pets at night, knowing they are sure to he dry by morning.

Another common question concerns the age at which it is safe to bathe a young animal. There is no rule about age. Young puppies that have become soiled and foul-smelling must be bathed if they are to be kept in a house. There is never an incident of bath harm a pet, provided it was properly dried. The fact is that puppies of all breeds frequently suffer from parasites and diseases. When one gets sick shortly after being bathed, the bath is all too often assumed to be the cause. Most of the harm that supposedly results from bathing has actually been caused by preexisting condition.

There are several dry shampoos available that are quite effective cleaning agents. These should be used according to directions, which vary with the type. There arc also several harmless detergents on the market that remove dirt without lathering.

• Removal of Road Tar: Dogs often run in newly tarred roads and return with a ball of tar and sand around each foot. The safest removal method is to massage lard into the tar and wash with a detergent. Repeat this procedure until all the tar is washed away. Kerosene will dissolve the tar but it also irritates the skin. In cases where kerosene has to be used it is necessary to rinse each foot in several washings of kerosene and then quickly wash off the kerosene with strong soap and water each time - it is as necessary to wash out the kerosene as it is to remove the tar. The discoloration on the dog due to the tar is hard to eliminate completely but does no physical harm.


• Removal of Paint: Most of us are cognizant of the dangers of lead in oil-based paints. Since some of these oil-based paint pigments are poisonous they should be removed immediately. If the dog comes home with still wet oil-based paint on its coat, turpentine will remove it, if plenty is used without allowing too much to come in contact with the animal's skin. The turpentine must be removed by thorough washing with soap and water after each application.
  If the oil-based paint is dry, first try to dissolve it. And if your dog's skin is especially tender, use linseed oil to do this. When you have diluted the paint greatly, wash it and the oil out with soap and water. You may, however, have to cut the paint out with scissors as a last resort, even though this may make the dog look less attractive for awhile. Of course, water-based paints can be removed by washing with water.


• Animal Odors: The sources of animal odors, aside from excrement of course, are ear canker, lip-fold or other infections, anal gland secretions, sebum from thousands of body glands, and dog collars, which absorb sebum. All of these can be eliminated by cleaning the cars, by treating the infections, by expressing the anal glands, and by thorough bathing.


• Parasite Control: Bathing in itself will not eliminate parasites, as many people seem to think, but preparations of excellent efficiency for use with bathing are readily available. Some are used as a rinse or dip following the bath; others are liquid soaps or soap cakes with insect killers added. Some manufacturers claim that their products will pre-vent fleas and lice from re infesting dogs for several days to a week after use. Some claim their products will kill the eggs of lice (nits).

In eliminating lice, it is necessary to apply the killing agent every eleven days, as this breaks the generation and so eliminates the lice. If there is any doubt about the thoroughness of the treatment, apply the preparation once a week for three weeks.

The more effective way to control pests is to use a liquid dip, soap, or rinse to kill all the insect pests during the bath and then keep the dog well powdered with a nonpoisonous flea powder. Flea collars that were once effective are less so now, thanks to the emergence of resistant fleas.

Dog Bedding

Bedding for dogs can also be a problem. For indoor dogs you have a choice of several different kinds of mattresses, canvas stretched across metal or wooden frames, and all sort of beds. You can make beds out of pieces of thick carpet or cast-off mattresses cut down, or you can allow pets to sleep in old chairs. An old blanket that can be laundered when necessary is a simple solution.

Some people like the smell of cedar in bedding, but the smell of stale cedar mixed with dog odors is unpleasant. After a while the smell pervades a whole house - even the clothing hanging in closets. Ordinary pine shavings can be bought for a fraction of the cost of cedar and actually makes better bedding, especially if you add some flea powder to the shavings.

Some dogs refuse to sleep on soft beds. Great Danes often develop large elbow joint swellings from irritation caused by sleeping on hard surfaces, and almost everyone has known at least one dog that insisted on lying right by the crack under the door. Heavy dogs that refuse to sleep on the softer bedding provided for them sometimes develop sores or stiffness. Light dogs usually show the marks only at their elbows. In outside kennels, oat or wheat straw is as satisfactory as any bed-ding. Marsh grass is also excellent. Wood shavings are likely to be tracked out, create an untidy appearance, and are difficult to rake. If straw is placed in a kennel, there should be at least four inches of the packed material under a dog in cold weather. In summer less is needed. It is seldom necessary to dust outdoor dogs for fleas if a liberal amount is shaken in the bedding each time it is changed. In wet weather the bedding may have to be changed every few days, whereas in dry weather it may serve a month. If it stays over a week, flea powder should be dusted over it every six or seven days.

Dog Bedding Choices

While buying a bed for your dog you must be aware of the fact that you are not buying the bed for your use rather it is for your dear pet. So, you are advised to buy the kind of bed that would be preferred by your dog. If you are up to buying a bed of your dog’s choice, try to buy do a little amount of research on the breed to which your do0g belongs. Try to get some suggestions from your friends and associates who have dogs of the same breed. You may yourself try out a bit of self study to know the choices of your dog.

While buying the bed for your pet dog you should buy the bed that can be easily washable. To keep your dog away from the attack of diseases you are recommended to wash the bed of your dog on regular intervals to keep the bed and the surrounding environment clean and germ free.

Spaying or Neutering Your Dog FAQ

An estimated 5 million to 8 million animals are euthanized in shelters across this country every year. Many organizations are trying to decrease that number by opening low-cost spay/neuter clinics to prevent more litters of puppies needing homes. One such organization is LifeLine Animal Project, an Atlanta-based nonprofit shelter and clinic that has performed more than 25,000 spay/neuters since 2005. WebMD talked to executive director Rebecca Guinn to learn about the myths and facts surrounding spaying and neutering.

Q: Why should I have my dog spayed or neutered?

A: Shelter euthanasia is the number one killer of companion animals. Spaying and neutering is the only way to reduce or eliminate that.

It’s also better for your pet’s health. And it’s better for you because it will make your life easier if your pet is spayed or neutered. Animals can be miserable -- and make you miserable -- when they are in heat. And then there’s always the problem of what to do with the puppies.

There’s also the financial side. Just in the Atlanta area alone, more than $15 million is spent annually dealing with stray and unwanted pets. That’s your tax dollars.

Q: Shouldn’t I let my dog have a litter before I spay her?

A: No. Absolutely not. All the medical evidence suggests a dog should be spayed before her first heat. It’s much easier for her then because it’s a much easier surgery at that time.

And the problem with letting your dog have a litter is you’ve just instantly contributed to the pet overpopulation problem. Now you have to find homes for all those puppies. And for each home you find, there’s one less home for a dog that was already born. Plus, you can’t be responsible for what the new owners do. So unless you spay or neuter all the puppies before placing them, the new owners may let their dog breed as well. Now you’ve added even more dogs to the pet overpopulation problem.

The only responsible thing to do, given the problem in this country, is to not allow your pets to reproduce.

Some people say they want their children to witness birth. OK, you can still do that. There are plenty of rescue groups out there trying to help animals that have been abandoned by irresponsible pet owners. Many have pregnant animals. Volunteer to foster a pregnant dog. You’ll be helping the group as well as the dog, and you’ll give your children a chance to see a litter being born and raised.

Q: Should I let my dog have a heat before I spay her?

A: Medically, it’s better to spay your dog before her first heat. It greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors. People who wait to spay their dogs until after their second heat greatly increase the risk of mammary tumors in their pets. Once they’ve had several heats, intact female dogs have a one out of four chance of developing mammary tumors.

Q: Is it OK to spay my dog when she’s a puppy?

A: We spay or neuter dogs at our clinic at 8 weeks as long as they weigh at least two pounds. Of course, it varies by breed. Some of the tiny breeds have to be done later. But larger breeds are usually ready by two months of age.

There are still some people who say pediatric spay/neuter is dangerous, but that’s not true. It has become much more widely accepted. Those ideas about needing to wait until after a dog is six months or a year old are really antiquated and the evidence is to the contrary. Even the American Veterinary Medical Association supports early spay/neuter.

The puppies recover a lot faster than adults. It’s an easier surgery for them, and it reduces the rate of disease later on. It’s just a much easier procedure on younger animals.

Q: It can cost hundreds of dollars to get a dog spayed or neutered. I can’t afford that. What can I do?

A: There are a lot of low-cost options all over the country. We have a low-cost spay/neuter clinic in the Atlanta area and we spay dogs for as little as $70. The ASPCA keeps a database of low-cost options on its web site. You can put in your zip code, and it will give you all your options within a certain radius. Click on the “pet care” tab and look for the low-cost and free spay/neuter database.

Q: Don’t dogs get fat once you spay or neuter them?

A: Dogs, just like people, get fat when they eat too much and don’t get enough exercise. And that’s something you can control. You can use portion control and take your dog for a walk.

Q: My dog is a guard dog. If I spay or neuter him, will that stop him from protecting my house?

A: Spaying or neutering is not going to affect your dog’s desire or ability to protect your home or protect you. Guard dogs are trained to be guard dogs. Their behavior is a function of genetics or instinct, environment, and training.

Many, many police canine units spay or neuter their dogs. There’s no correlation between spaying or neutering an animal and its ability to protect you.

But people also need to understand that unless their dog has been trained to be a guard dog, it isn’t a guard dog. Most dogs are naturally protective, but if you truly need a dog for protection, and your dog isn’t trained, you’re at risk.

Q: Will my dog stop running away from home if I neuter him?

A: Well, you really should keep your dog confined. But neutering certainly does decrease the instinct to roam. That’s because unneutered dogs are constantly seeking to match up with unspayed females. It also will decrease your dog’s urge to escape your home or escape your fence. But in this day and age, there’s no reason to allow a dog to freely roam the streets. It’s dangerous.

Q: My dog leaves marks all over my house. If I neuter him, will that stop?

A: Neutering a dog will decrease and could eliminate that kind of marking, which is a territorial behavior. That’s what they’re doing; they’re marking their territory to ward off other male dogs that could come into it and get their female. So neutering may eliminate the problem. But there also could be other health issues or behavioral issues involved at this point. So it’s a really good argument for neutering early, before the animal reaches sexual maturity and the marking behavior has become habit.

Q: Will spaying or neutering my dog prevent future illnesses?

A: Yes, absolutely. In females, it greatly decreases mammarian cancer and completely eliminates uterine cancers and diseases. In males, it eliminates testicular cancers or diseases and can lower the risk of prostate cancer. Generally, spayed and neutered pets live longer, happier lives.