Dog Bathing

Dogs and cats are the only pets ordinarily bathed, and they are bathed simply to remove dirt and odors. There is no best way to bath ea pet, and no way has yet been found to eliminate the need for elbow grease. For bathing a pet the human fingers are far more efficient than any mechanical device yet developed.

Because the coats of dogs are water-resistant, the help of a chemicals needed to wash a dog with ease. A liquid detergent used to hand wash dishes is our first choice and liquid soap with either a zoo percent (or a diluted 40 percent) coconut-oil base is excellent. To dilute 40percent soap, simply add an equal amount of water. Cake soap can bemused instead of liquid, but it requires considerably more work. By whatever method the soap or detergent and water are applied, the solution must be well worked into the coat and rubbed until the dirt has been loosened or dissolved. After the lathering, the suds must be thoroughly rinsed from the coat. This is best accomplished by work-in the fingers through the hair, just as one does in applying the soap solution. Usually one soaping and rinsing is enough, but if necessary, the process may be repeated.

There are soaps that contain vermin poisons. If one is used, no further medication is required. However, there are several very efficient dips and rinses available that are well worth using to finish off your pet's bath. Prepare the solution just before the bathing starts. After the pet has been washed and rinsed, pour the dip or special rinse all over the coat, allow it to saturate the coat for a few minutes, squeeze out the surplus with your hands, and dry the pet.

A loosening of hair generally follows any bath. After the pet is dry, considerable combing is generally necessary to free the coat of the loosened hair and give it a sheen and tone.

Bathing small dogs or puppies may be easily accomplished by using abasing and towels. The whole animal may be dipped in the basin, leaving only the head out. The soiled water can be allowed to run out and fresh water quickly drawn while the pet sits on a towel, waiting for the next immersion.

One of the questions about bathing most frequently asked is whether it is safe in winter. It is safe in winter provided the pet is well dried before being allowed outside in the cold air. For that reason many pet owners bathe their pets at night, knowing they are sure to he dry by morning.

Another common question concerns the age at which it is safe to bathe a young animal. There is no rule about age. Young puppies that have become soiled and foul-smelling must be bathed if they are to be kept in a house. There is never an incident of bath harm a pet, provided it was properly dried. The fact is that puppies of all breeds frequently suffer from parasites and diseases. When one gets sick shortly after being bathed, the bath is all too often assumed to be the cause. Most of the harm that supposedly results from bathing has actually been caused by preexisting condition.

There are several dry shampoos available that are quite effective cleaning agents. These should be used according to directions, which vary with the type. There arc also several harmless detergents on the market that remove dirt without lathering.

• Removal of Road Tar: Dogs often run in newly tarred roads and return with a ball of tar and sand around each foot. The safest removal method is to massage lard into the tar and wash with a detergent. Repeat this procedure until all the tar is washed away. Kerosene will dissolve the tar but it also irritates the skin. In cases where kerosene has to be used it is necessary to rinse each foot in several washings of kerosene and then quickly wash off the kerosene with strong soap and water each time - it is as necessary to wash out the kerosene as it is to remove the tar. The discoloration on the dog due to the tar is hard to eliminate completely but does no physical harm.


• Removal of Paint: Most of us are cognizant of the dangers of lead in oil-based paints. Since some of these oil-based paint pigments are poisonous they should be removed immediately. If the dog comes home with still wet oil-based paint on its coat, turpentine will remove it, if plenty is used without allowing too much to come in contact with the animal's skin. The turpentine must be removed by thorough washing with soap and water after each application.
  If the oil-based paint is dry, first try to dissolve it. And if your dog's skin is especially tender, use linseed oil to do this. When you have diluted the paint greatly, wash it and the oil out with soap and water. You may, however, have to cut the paint out with scissors as a last resort, even though this may make the dog look less attractive for awhile. Of course, water-based paints can be removed by washing with water.


• Animal Odors: The sources of animal odors, aside from excrement of course, are ear canker, lip-fold or other infections, anal gland secretions, sebum from thousands of body glands, and dog collars, which absorb sebum. All of these can be eliminated by cleaning the cars, by treating the infections, by expressing the anal glands, and by thorough bathing.


• Parasite Control: Bathing in itself will not eliminate parasites, as many people seem to think, but preparations of excellent efficiency for use with bathing are readily available. Some are used as a rinse or dip following the bath; others are liquid soaps or soap cakes with insect killers added. Some manufacturers claim that their products will pre-vent fleas and lice from re infesting dogs for several days to a week after use. Some claim their products will kill the eggs of lice (nits).

In eliminating lice, it is necessary to apply the killing agent every eleven days, as this breaks the generation and so eliminates the lice. If there is any doubt about the thoroughness of the treatment, apply the preparation once a week for three weeks.

The more effective way to control pests is to use a liquid dip, soap, or rinse to kill all the insect pests during the bath and then keep the dog well powdered with a nonpoisonous flea powder. Flea collars that were once effective are less so now, thanks to the emergence of resistant fleas.