Rabies in Cats

When the disease attacks cats, they generally hide under the furniture or in some dark corner, and there they may die unobserved in a day or two. As a rule, however, the disease in cats implies danger for human beings.



The rabid cat becomes very bellicose; from the dark corner where it has hidden it will suddenly attack animals or persons, especially children, jumping up to the face and inflicting severe wounds with its teeth and claws. In the violence of this attack it frequently bites itself. The rabid cat nearly loses its voice, being able only to mew hoarsely. Later it loses its appetite, has difficulty in swallowing, becomes emaciated, and succumbs within several days with symptoms of paralysis.

Cat Coat Color Possibilities and Common Markings

By: Alfred and Miss Patches Marie Kitty

The Domestic Cat is found with a wide variety of colors and markings. It isn't unusual to see varied colors and patterns within the same litter of kittens, especially, of course, in the Domestic Shorthair.

The two primary colors that are present in cats are black and red. Every other color is a variation of black or red, except for white. The white coloring in cats is caused by a masking gene, meaning that the gene masks or hides the black or red coloring of the cat.

Every color of cat can have a variety of markings or patterns. The most common patterns or markings in cats are solid, tabby, tortoiseshell and pointed. Some color patterns have some white mixed in. This is called white spotting and is still caused by a masking gene, but this gene only hides
some of the coloring, not all.

Patterns in a cat are determined by genes and can show up as any number of differing patterns even within the common pattern types.

Here is a list of common patterns seen in cats:

Solid - They coat has one solid color with no markings, stripes or splotches. The most common solid coat colors in cats are black or white.

Vaccine-Associated Sarcoma in Cats

A sarcoma is a cancer of the connective and soft tissues. Sarcomas are not a new form of cancer in cats. But in 1991, veterinarians began to notice a higher than expected number of sarcomas occurring in places where vaccines are commonly injected.

Subsequently, an association between vaccine administration and sarcoma development has been established. FeLV and rabies virus vaccines have more frequently been implicated in sarcoma development than have other vaccines. Both subcutaneous and intramuscular sites have been affected. Injections other than vaccines may also be implicated.

The increased appearance of these sarcomas roughly coincided with the change from using a modified-live rabies virus vaccine to an adjuvanted killed virus vaccine. At about the same time, an aluminum-adjuvanted FeLV vaccine was introduced. Adjuvants are added to vaccines to increase the immune response-especially in vaccines that use killed versions of a virus. Adjuvants in general, and aluminum adjuvants in particular, were therefore thought to be the culprit. However, researchers are no longer certain this is the case. It is believed that these vaccines cause some kind of inflammation at the vaccination site that, in some cases, is associated with sarcoma development, but an exact link has not been proven.

Nonetheless, vaccine manufacturers are developing recombinant vaccines that do not use adjuvant and that cause less inflammation at the vaccination site. Many modified-live virus vaccines are available for other viral diseases and some of them do not contain adjuvant. New vaccination guidelines try to minimize the number of injections given over a cat’s lifetime, as well, and also recommend specific sites on the body for injections to be given.

It’s important to remember that vaccine-associated sarcoma is still a very rare form of cancer. The occurrence rate varies from 1 in 1,000 to 1 in 10,000. The wide range seems to be associated with a genetic predisposition to this problem in certain cats and lines of cats. For instance, some geographic areas show an increased rate.

These cancers may show up months or even years after a vaccination. Although a fair number of cats have a small lump after getting a vaccination, the lump should be gone within a month. If it is not, have the cat examined by a veterinarian.

Because so much is still unknown, the Vaccine-Associated Feline Sarcoma Task Force was formed as a joint effort of the American Association of Feline Practitioners, American Animal Hospital Association, American Veterinary Medical Association, and Veterinary Cancer Society. This group is working to determine the true scope of the problem, the cause, and the most effective treatment for vaccine-associated sarcomas.

Treatment: This is an aggressive cancer that tends to spread in and between muscle layers, making it very difficult to remove all of the cancerous cells surgically. Surgery, with radiation done either before or after the surgery, seems to be the most successful treatment plan, but most of these cancers recur, nonetheless.

When Should I Spay/Neuter My Cat?

An estimated 5 million to 8 million animals are euthanized in shelters across this country every year. Many organizations are trying to decrease that number by opening low-cost spay/neuter clinics that will prevent more litters of cats that need homes.

One such organization is LifeLine Animal Project, an Atlanta-based nonprofit shelter and clinic where more than 25,000 spay/neuters have been performed since 2005. WebMD talked to executive director Rebecca Guinn to find out about some spay-neuter myths and facts.

A: Yes, as long as she’s at least eight weeks of age and weighs at least eight pounds. Pediatric spay/neuter is widely accepted. Those ideas about needing to wait are really antiquated and the evidence is to the contrary. Even the American Veterinary Medical Association supports early spay/neuter.

And cats can go into heat very early. They can have a litter at six months of age, and they can have three litters a year. Also, if you’ve ever been around a cat in heat, you know it’s miserable for people. They yowl loudly and continuously. They want to get out. It really alters their behavior. And every unneutered male cat in the neighborhood will be at your house spraying the outside of your house, spraying your front door, spraying under your crawlspace. Your whole house will reek of cat spray. It is a really, really regrettable experience.

Q: It can cost more than a $100 to get a cat spayed or neutered. I can’t afford that. What can I do?

A: There are a lot of low-cost options all over the country. The ASPCA keeps a database of low-cost options on its web site, where you can put in your zip code and it will give you all your options within a certain radius of your zip code. It’s at aspca.org. Click on the “pet care” tab and look for the low-cost and free spay/neuter database.

here usually are more low-cost options for cats than there are for dogs. That’s because it’s a much easier procedure in cats than in dogs. At our clinic, we neuter cats for $35 and spay cats for $45. There are some clinics that do nothing but cats. So there are a lot of options available for cats.

Q: Don’t cats get fat once you spay or neuter them?

A: It goes back to portion control and exercise. I recommend cats be kept indoors, and you have to have enough environmental enrichment to keep your cat happy. So have vertical spaces, climbing trees, things like that. Have places where they can hide, places where they can play, places where they can just be cats. But portion control is the main thing. If you have a cat that won’t stop eating, don’t free feed your cat. That’s something you can control and have a responsibility to control.

Q: There’s a statistic that says one unspayed female cat can lead to 420,000 cats. Is that true?

A: Stray cats are a huge problem. But it’s not close to half a million cats per female. If it were, we’d be hip deep in cats.

Q: Why should I have my cat spayed or neutered?

A: Shelter euthanasia is the number one killer of companion animals, and spaying and neutering is the only way to reduce or eliminate that. It’s also better for your pet’s health. And it’s better for you because it will make your life easier if your pet is spayed or neutered.

There’s also a financial side. It varies by community, but it’s about $100 for animal control to impound and euthanize a cat. Just in the Atlanta area alone, more than $15 million in tax dollars is spent annually dealing with stray and unwanted pets.

Q: Shouldn’t I let my cat have a litter before I spay her?

A: No. You shouldn’t for several reasons. It greatly reduces the risk of certain cancers if you have her spayed before the first heat and certainly before she has a litter.

And most places are overrun with kittens, particularly in the south. Overrun. And there is simply no excuse whatsoever to allow your cat to have kittens. There are millions of cats and kittens out there that need homes and millions more that are abandoned or handed out at places like Wal-Mart. There’s simply no good argument to have a litter of kittens.

There are shelters in the Atlanta area that can have 40 to 50 moms with litters in their shelters on any given day during the spring and summer. There simply aren’t enough homes for all the cats that get born every kitten season. And in the south, kitten season is almost year round. And there’s a kitten season everywhere.

Q: Should I let my cat have a heat before I spay her?

A: There’s no reason to do that. It’s a myth that animals should have a litter first or a heat before they are spayed. There are no health benefits to that at all, and it’s a much easier medical procedure if you spay before the first heat. All the benefits you get from spaying or neutering your pet are magnified by spaying or neutering before the animal reaches puberty.

Q: Is it OK to spay my cat when she’s just a kitten?

Technically, I suppose it’s possible. But it assumes that the cats are having the largest possible litters, that all the kittens survive, and that everything goes along just fine and none of the cats ever die or are altered. But that’s just not the reality.

Obviously, many cats are spayed or neutered. And stray or feral cats, free roaming cats, don’t have that kind of survival rate for kittens. It’s more like 25% to 40% survive. Those figures have been examined and they just don’t hold up. It’s more like an unspayed female can lead to 100 more cats out there, which is still too many. But it’s not that crazy number. That’s not realistic.

Q: Will my tomcat stop running away from home if I neuter him?

A: We don’t recommend having free-roaming cats. And if you have an unaltered male cat, you’re probably not seeing much of him anyway.

Usually, neutering a tom will curb its desire to roam, although cats are a little different than dogs and wander for reasons other than reproducing, such as hunting. So neutering will reduce the instinct to roam, but it won’t eliminate it.

Unaltered males also are more at risk for feline leukemia [FeLV] and FIV [feline immunodeficiency virus]. That’s because they fight, and deep bite wounds are the leading factor in the transmission of those diseases.

Q: My cat sprays all over my house. If I neuter him, will that stop?

A: More than likely it will. It will certainly take away that hormonal urge to spray. Neutering early is your best bet to avoid that urge altogether. If you have a neutered cat that is still spraying, you should see your veterinarian. It could be a behavioral issue, or it could be a health problem. But the first step in controlling spraying or marking territory is neutering.

Q: Will spaying or neutering my cat prevent future illnesses?

A: You’ll have a lower incidence of mammary tumors. We see a lot of unspayed cats come into our clinic with pyometra (an infection of the uterus), which can be a life-threatening disease for them.

For male cats, you eliminate testicular diseases, and for females, you eliminate the risk of uterine diseases. Generally, spayed and neutered pets live longer, happier lives.

Socializing Your Shy or Fearful Cat

Cats can develop a fear of people they don’t know for many reasons. Companion felines have unique personalities, and some are just more outgoing than others.

However, if a cat is calm and friendly with his family but afraid of visitors, it’s often because he didn’t have enough experience meeting new people when he was very young. To be social and comfortable with all kinds of people, a cat must have frequent opportunities to meet numerous new and different people in low-key, pleasant circumstances while still a kitten, especially between the ages of two and seven weeks. Cats who didn’t spend much time with people as kittens-for example, former stray cats-might remain skittish around people their entire lives.

Moving With Your Cat

Most cats are not big fans of change. If they could chose, they would prefer to stay where they’re already comfortable and settled in.

But, at some point in their lives, most cats must move on to a new location. Making the transition as stress-free as possible for your feline companion can have big benefits, including reducing the risk of fear-based house soiling, excessive meowing and crying, hiding, escape attempts and aggression.

Moving a cat to a new house involves three basic aspects: pre-move preparations, the move itself and settling into the new home. All three sections below apply to a move with a resident pet. The third section is most important if you’re only trying to integrate a new cat into your existing household.

Preparation

• Allow your cat time to get used to his carrier. Leave it sitting out with the door open and a comfy bed inside. Occasionally leave a couple of cat treats in it so your cat can find them on his own. Start feeding your cat in the carrier. If your cat is reluctant to enter the carrier to eat, start by just placing his dish next to it. After a few days, put the dish just inside the carrier, right near the opening. Then, over a week or two, gradually move the dish toward the back of the carrier so your cat has to step a little further inside each day. Eventually, place the dish at the very back of the carrier to your cat must go all the way into it to eat.


• Put out your moving boxes a couple weeks before you need to start packing so your cat has time to get used to their presence. If your cat is nervous while you’re packing, he’ll probably be happier closed in a quiet room, away from the activity and noise. It’s also a good idea to confine your cat if you think he might try to hide in one of the boxes.


• Try to keep your cat’s daily routine as stable as possible. Stick closely to his regular schedule for feeding, play and attention. A feeder with a timer can be helpful to make sure your cat eats at the same time each day.


• If your cat is very skittish, nervous or easily stressed, speak to your vet about using anti-anxiety medication to make the moving process easier on him.

The Move

• To prevent your cat from dashing out the door while movers are going in and out, close him in a bathroom with food, water, a bed and litter box. Place a sign on the door asking the movers to keep the door shut.


• Feed your cat a very small breakfast on moving day to reduce stomach upset.


• While in transit, resist the urge to open your cat’s carrier to soothe him. A scared cat may try to dash out. Only open the carrier in a secure area and when absolutely necessary.


• Carry a roll of packing tape in case the carrier needs emergency repairs along the way.

Settling Into the New House

• First, cat-proof the new house. Tuck away electrical cords, plug up nooks where a cat could get stuck, make sure that all windows have secure screens, remove any poisonous houseplants and confirm that no pest-control poison traps have been left anywhere in the house.


• Immediately take your cat to a room that will remain relatively quiet. Before opening the carrier, set up your cat’s food and water dishes, litter box and bed. Place some cat treats around the room to encourage your cat to explore.


• Keep your cat in this one “home-base” room for his first several days in the new house. This will allow him to gradually get used to the sights, sounds and smells of his new home without feeling overwhelmed. Keeping your cat in one room will also make it easy for him to find his litter box, food and water. If you’re adding a new cat to a home where there are existing pets, please see Introducing Your Dog to a New Cat or Introducing Your Cat to a New Cat.


• Spend time with your cat in his home-base room, at first doing low-key activities like reading or watching TV. When he begins to explore, offer your cat attention, treats and playtime.


• When the flurry of unpacking is over, gradually give your cat access to the rest of the house, one room at a time. If it’s not possible to close doors to limit his access, closely supervise your cat during short exploration sessions.


• Provide a second litter box where you’ll want to keep one permanently. Keep the box available in the home-base room for at least a few weeks. Once your cat has settled in, you can remove that box. Alternatively, you can keep the home-base litter box but gradually transfer it to a preferable location. To make sure your cat doesn’t lose track of where it is, move the box just a foot or so away from the home-base room and toward your preferred location each day.

People Food: Can You Feed Your Cat Milk?

Cats and milk: In children’s stories, it always seems to be a match made in heaven. Who hasn’t seen adorable illustrations of a kitten lapping at a saucer full of cream?

As with so many romances, the one between cats and dairy isn’t quite what it’s cracked up to be. That’s because even though most cats adore a bit of milk, milk doesn’t always return the affection.
The main culprit is milk’s lactose, which many cats have trouble digesting. The result: diarrhea or stomach upset. Not exactly romantic.

How to Put Your Cat on a Diet

More than half -- 57% -- of U.S. cats are overweight or obese, according to a 2008 study by the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention. That’s 51 million fat cats.

How can you tell if your cat is overweight? And what can you do about it? WebMD asked Tony Buffington, DVM, PhD, an expert in feline health and nutrition.

Q: How can I tell if my cat is too fat?

A: You do a body condition score. Look down at your cat. You should be able to see a waist when you look down on it from the top, or when you run your hands from its ribs to its hips. Run your hand along its abdomen from its ribs to its pelvis and it should be indented.

If you put your hands on the side of its chest, you should be able to feel its ribs without a thick layer of fat over them. There are charts that show this. You can find them online - all the pet food sites have body condition scoring charts. Or ask at your veterinarian’s office and they can show you the chart and help you evaluate where your cat falls.

Q: Are some breeds more prone to weight gain?

A: A couple of studies have looked at this, and surprisingly, they found that mixed breed cats are about twice as likely to be overweight than purebred cats.

Q: Why should I care if my cat is fat? He looks happy to me.

A: It depends on why your cat is overweight. If he’s overweight because he eats too much, or you feed him too much, then there are the common beliefs that obesity can lead to shorter life spans, diabetes, or joint and skin problems.

But often, cats are overweight because of environmental causes. So first we need to figure out why your cat is overweight. Is he not moving enough because he’s terrified in your house? Do the dog or the kids attack him every time he comes out of hiding? Or, is he bored because there’s nothing to do in the house so he just sits around and eats? If that’s the case, then changing his diet or the amount of food he eats won’t help his weight problem. He’s not a happy fat cat. He’s just fat. So the issue then is making your home a happier place for your cat. If he’s happier and more active, then he’ll probably lose weight.

That’s why, when I work with fat cats, I look at the environment as well as the food intake.

Q: Will spaying or neutering a cat make it gain weight?

A: Studies that have been done on this topic suggest that spaying or neutering a cat can cause a change in the cat’s body weight of zero to 25%. Removal of the hormones will change its metabolism a little bit and it will change its activity level a little bit. So my advice to owners is to be careful and pay attention. This is the time to keep checking that body condition score we previously talked about. Or, if you have a scale, weigh your cat regularly. And if he starts gaining weight, we might need to cut back his food intake, or switch his diet.

Q: What kind of diet should my cat be on to lose weight?

A: If we want a cat to lose weight, we have to do two things. We have to think about what we feed him and we have to figure out how to make him more active. One easy way to do both is to feed out of a foraging device. These are small plastic containers with holes that we put the cat’s food in. The cat then has to play with the device to get the food to fall out. Cats will work for food, which a lot of owners don’t realize.

But remember, we never want to change an animal’s diet without asking their permission. And the way we ask permission is offer the new food or new feeding device alongside the old dish or food.

Owners also need to know that the food intake recommendations on pet food packaging labels are generally well above what most pets need to consume. Those recommendations were developed for intact, active animals, while most of the animals I see are sedentary, spayed or neutered pets.

Q: I tried putting my cat on a diet and he howled for days. Are some cats just too old or set in their ways to change?

A: When trying to change a pet’s food, never take away the old food completely. For many cats, the old dish and food are actually a safety signal. Cats like familiarity. They don’t like a lot of change. So if you need to offer a new food, offer it alongside the old food. Give your cat a choice. Usually, when it’s done that way, the cat will at least try the other food eventually, and if he likes it, he’ll eat it.

Q: My cat is an indoor only cat. Can he get enough exercise inside to lose weight?

A: Of course he can get enough exercise if you’re providing him an enriched environment. So give your cat climbing structures because cats love to be elevated. They need windows they can look out. Use foraging balls to encourage exercise. And they need to feel comfortable enough to come out. If they’re afraid of half the things in your house, they won’t come out to exercise.

And that includes people. Remember, you should never use punishment as a teaching tool. If you slap a cat, he thinks you’re trying to kill him. He can become immobilized with fear. But cats respond marvelously to praise and treats.

Q: Does my cat need to see a vet before starting an exercise plan or a diet?

A: It’s a good idea just to be sure there’s not something else going on. There are probably a dozen different causes of obesity in cats, ranging from overeating and overfeeding to inadequate activity, seasonal obesity, and even some drugs and diseases can cause weight gain.

I’d also like the vet to do an environmental history to make sure the cat isn’t fat just because it’s afraid to move - the dog is bothering it or the kids are pulling its tail every time it comes out. That’s actually fairly common. Owners need to know if their cat hides a lot, that’s not normal cat behavior. So we need to help them find a way to structure the home life so the cat is moving around and interacting with its environment.

Q: Should I cook for my cat?

A: You can, but I don’t recommend it. It takes a lot of time and you have to include supplements. If you want to do this, you really should talk to your veterinarian to be sure you’re doing it correctly. There are places that will sell you the supplements and then you can just add in the protein and carbohydrates, if you have the time and the interest.

Q: Are there any diet pills for cats?

A: No. They have one for dogs, but that medication is dangerous for cats.

Reviewed on May 01, 2010

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